--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Todd Nelson" <tan5732@...> wrote: > > List: > > I'm finally getting around to rebuilding the one system on my car that I have not done anything with, the suspension! Currently it is 100% stock and very obviously so. My question for you all is actually a few... > > 1. I plan to replace both upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends and would like some advice on the best way to remove them. Keep in mind I will be taking out both upper and lower control arms. Is a pickle fork really the only way to do this? If possible I would like to salvage the old pieces. Since you will be replacing all this stuff, a pickle fork is your best bet. Their are different methods available for removing the tie rod ends and lower ball joints if you were going to be saving them. But the only way to pop the upper ball joint loose is a PF. > > 2. From what I can see (and what I've read) the upper ball joints are held to the control arm by means of 4 rivet type fasteners. I've read that when reinstalling new upper ball joints, nuts and bolts can be used in their place. Is this true? And if so, what type/grade bolt should be used. Is there a vendor that supplies these? Usually the ball joints come with the necessary hardware. You will have to drill out the old rivit heads and carefully punch the reminents out of the control arm. > > 3. In my suspension investigation I finally found my odd rattling sound, it turned out to be my right-front shock was lose where it attaches to the shock tower. Unfortunately from being loose so long the excess wiggling seems to have worn away at the hole in the shock tower where the shock bolts through. This has made it seemingly impossible to keep the shock from wiggling around inside. This may be fixed when I replace the shocks and get new bushings in that area, but I'm wondering if there are any other suggestions on how to repair this area. Without seeing a picture of the damage it is hard to give advice on this. however, you may want to use urethane shock bushings. They are firmer than rubber and will hold for a long time. > > 4. Since I will have all of the control arms, stabilizer bar, and rear links removed I plan to have them sand blasted and powder coated. Is there anything I should tell the powder coater? Such as parts of the control arms and rear links to not get any powder on? I would think the area where the bushings are pressed into place would need to stay bare metal, as well as where the lower ball joint is pressed in place. I believe you can have the powder coater mask off the areas you don't want powder coating on, especially areas that require press fit tolerances. I don't know if you were planning on powder coating with the bushings in place, but I don't think it would be a very a good idea to attempt to remove the upper control arm bushings they require some special setups to remove, oherwise you will damage the arm. The other thing to keep in mind is that the Rubber in all the suspension bushings is rated at 250 degrees. Typical powder coating processes cure at oven temps of 350 - 450 depending the method of coating used. Hope this helps Dennis To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/