Re: [DML] www.delorean.ie has been updated!
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: [DML] www.delorean.ie has been updated!
- From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 12:11:00 -0000
Hi Todd,
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
The sandblasting cost me 450 Euros, but I had a lot of the external
epoxy already stripped with the heat gun and nitromors paint
strippers. The nitromors is cheap at about 7 Euros for a tin. Heat
gun cost about 20 Euros.
I did most of the labour myself in cutting out the rusted metal - all
you need is an angle grinder and a 1mm cutting disk. So I saved money
here by not having to pay someone do this for me. I also saved a lot
of labour fees by dismantling the car myself with my brother, and
rebuilding it with him, my Dad, and some good friends. I'm sure it
would be an expensive job to pay one of the DeLorean repair shops to
do all this work for you!
The new metal which was welded into the frame (including getting some
pieces of metal folded to different shapes) cost about 200 Euro.
The welding cost me 250 Euros. This included fabricating the panel
under the steering mounts, fabricating the "u shaped" bracket inside
the front cross member, welding all the new plates into the frame,
fabricating and welding in the boxing plates for the upper and lower
control arms, and also included pressing out all my old suspension
bushings and lower ball joints, and pressing in the new polyurethane
bushings and new lower ball joints.
New parts such as all new polyurethane bushings, ball joints,
steering shaft, brake pads, caliper and master cylinder rebuild kits,
rear shocks, and a few other pieces cost probably 1500 or more. I'd
need to check... Galvanising itself cost 100 Euro.
So, the frame restoration alone cost 100 for galvanising, 450 for
sandblasting, 200 for metal and 250 for welding. Total cost = 1000
Euros or 1200 US dollars.
I think overall, I did the restoration from start to finish for about
2600 Euros (3260 US Dollars). I looked into the cost of the stainless
frame, but by the time it would be shipped to my door, and all import
charges paid for, it was costing just about 15,000 US Dollars!!! I
could buy a whole DeLorean for that amount of money, so it is
definitely not worth buying the stainless frame for anyone in Europe
in my opinion.
The galvanising is just as good a job as the stainless steel frame,
provided that it is galvanised properly. To galvanise properly, the
most important thing is that there is absolutely no paint left on the
frame, inside or out, before galvanising.
Ed Uding in the Netherlands has the best system I've seen for
stripping the epoxy from DeLorean frames. He puts them in a vacuum
furnace at 450 degrees, and the paint turns to black dust, and falls
off the frame.
We don't have this facility in Ireland unfortunately, which is why I
chose to sandblast (and cut openings in the frame to allow
sandblasting inside). I'm sure the facility that Ed uses is available
in the USA however....
I can't stress enough how crazy it is to follow the advice that is
sometimes given that "there is no need to strip the epoxy - it will
burn off during galvanising". This is absolute rubbish, and in my
opinion will significantly increase your chances of warping your
frame, due to the much longer submersion required to burn the epoxy.
A frame that is galvanised like this will rust again, no doubt about
it. It is also a very dangerous method for the workers in the
galvanising factory, as the frame with epoxy on it will not sink
fully into the molten zinc, but will float, requiring it to be
manually pushed under the surface using a metal bar or something
similar.
Anyway, if done correctly, galvanising is definitely the best
solution for our frames. They do not warp during the process, even
frames with significant repairs done to them before galvanising.
Galvanising will last 100 years or more, at a fraction of the cost of
the stainless steel frame.
You also mentioned stripping the frame, and just powdercoating it.
Personally, after researching powdercoating, galvanising, and every
other method out there, I would not just powdercoat the frame.
Powdercoating will chip and scratch just like the original coating,
and will allow rust to travel underneath it again. To go to the
effort of stripping your car to that extent, then have it begin to
rust again after a few years is a bit mad in my opinion.
Up until now, the main reason people have been put off galvanising a
DeLorean frame is fear of it warping. I think that rumour can be
safely put to bed now. Plenty of DeLorean frames have been
successfully galvanised in Europe with absolutely no warpage. On my
own frame, I measured from the hole at the top of the front left
shock tower to the hole at the top of the rear right shock tower, and
compared this measurement to the one taken from the front right to
rear left shock towers. The measurement was exactly the same (to the
milimeter) after galvanising. A few other measurements confirmed that
the frame did not warp at all during galvanising.
The other thing about the stainless frame that I just realised the
other day, is that the stainless steel frame loses out on a lot of
the design detail features of the original frame. For example, the
front frame extension in the stainless frame appears to be missing
the edge strip on the top and bottom plates (in the center of the
frame extension). Its hard to explain, but take a look at the
pictures of the stainless frame on the website
http://www.deloreancarshow.com and then compare them to the pictures
of the front of my frame, and you will see what I mean.
There are other areas on the stainless steel frame where again,
design features are lost, such as the plate under the engine cross
member with the ribs stamped into it. Or, the pressed holes on the
bottom of the front frame extension, through which you bolt on your
steering rack, are now just flat holes. Basically, it seems anywhere
where there was once a stamped design, it has been replaced by laser
cut flat pieces. I know that you can argue that these little
features "are not needed", and that the frame is strong enough
without them...
In my opinion, it doesn't take much effort to keep these little
design features, especially for a such a high price tag, and its nice
to keep the frame looking as original as possible.
My advice is to galvanise your frame, and spend your savings of 9 or
10 thousand dollars on other areas of your car, or even buy yourself
another restoration project DeLorean! You'll have a chassis every bit
as rustproof as a stainless steel frame, while keeping the original
look of the DeLorean frame. You can even powdercoat the galvanised
chassis back to grey to really have it look original. If you're
thinking that the stainless frame has the additional benefit of extra
strength over the original frame, you can always do as I did, and
weld in thicker than original metal in key areas.
Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
John Dore, Ireland.
http://www.delorean.ie
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Todd Nelson" <tan5732@...> wrote:
>
> John:
> The restoration looks great, it's good to know there will be at
least a few DeLorean's on the road for many years to come. If you don't mind me asking, how much did all of this cost!?
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN