You should consider replacing ALL of the hoses if any are leaking. Chances are many are origional, especially the ones that are hard to reach like the heater hoses and the ones on the back of the water pump. There is no easy way to get to the hoses behind the water pump. The general advice is to tear the top of the motor off and just replace the water pump, the hoses, and all the seals and gaskets, vacuum hoses, belts, idler pulley bearings, spark plugs, and ignition wires while you are in there. You may also have to replace the heater valve if it is stuck and/or leaking. Most of the vendors have what they call their "Master Cooling System Kit" with all the parts you will need. Removing the engine cover does improve the access. As for the hood and emblem, ther is no way to know, when cars went through the QAC centers parts were changed with no regard as to vin's, running production changes, correctness, etc. Hoods with flaps and grooves were in short supply, being no longer produced, so if a car had a damaged hood it was replaced with what was available, the flat hood being the current part. The emblem couild have been removed or just never installed. It is also possible a P. O. had to replace a damaged hood and got the flat hood. Current wisdom is if you have any concerns about your TAB's then they should be replaced. Cheap insurance. If the ones in the car are loose or bent then it is a no-brainer. The TAB's are the bolts (one each on each trailing arm) that attach the front end of the rear trailing arm to the frame through a bushing. You may have to remove the aluminum shields to get a good view. You also need to determine if the car had all of the recalls done and you should discuss with your favorite vendor about getting the "relay upgrade kit". Make sure all the fuses are the correct size for each position. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko@...> wrote: > > My Car (VIN 07181) is listed and registered as an '81. It has no grooves > nor logo emblem on the hood. Is it an anomaly or was it not supposed to > have those? > > I noticed a small coolant leak the other day. Coolant accumulated on the > left side of the firewall, above the radiator pipe and further to center. > After some investigation, the pipe and fittings are completely tight and > dry. It appears to be coming from around the heater tubes at or near the > heater valve at the front of the engine. What a pain in the rear trying to > get to those. I expect I'll have to remove the hood, as I did when I > replaced the plug wires and rotor, but is there any trick you can suggest to > use to gain access to these parts for inspection and replacement? > > Also, if I'm inspecting my TABs for wear, what would I expect to see if they > need changing? Are the common problem bolts the ones at the frame or the > ones at the axel. I assume (uh oh) it's the axel bolts, yes? > > Anybody nearby La Center, WA (just above Portland) would be welcome to drop > by and point things out to me. > > Thanks for your help. > > Craig Werner > 7181 > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/