Re: [DML] Doors and idle speed

[Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hey there Paul,

I may be able to help on the idle problem.  If it's
idling at 2000 rpms and than coming down by you quick
reving the engine, that probably means something
mechanical is binding.  Underneath the throttle spool
is a rod with a ball-n-socket joint on each end. 
Unhook ONLY the one that goes directly underneath the
throttle spool (it'll have a little clip holding the
ball joint on - take that off first) and lube it up
with some "3-in-1" Oil.  After that, take some WD40
and sprays inside the little holes that go around the
throttle spool.  Don't spray the spool itself but
spray inside the little square holes that are located
around the spool.  From there, you could go back to
your black microswitch (the "little spring" you
referred to under the air filter) and do this:
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/idle-speed-adj.jpg
. Do exactly what the photo says; if you rev the
throttle spool (with the engine off doing this
obviously), you should be able to hear the switch
"click" - just barely being tripped.  Back the top
screw off of the microswitch entirely, then SLOWLY
turn the screw and check for the "click" by reving the
throttle spool.  Once the adjustment screw just barely
activates the microswitch, you'll hear a "click". 
Once that happens, turn the screw a half turn more,
than tighten the nut down that hold the screw in
place.  It should take a 8mm, and have a screwdriver
to hold the screw in place or you'll end up turning
both the nut and the screw.  

Do all those things, and shout an update to us.  My
car was doing exactly the same thing after a recent
tuneup (plug wires), and I did everything I listed and
now my car hums nicely at roughly 1050 rpm (auto
tranny).  With our cars, you pretty much have to
re-tune the car if you do a tuneup due to the
mechanical nature of just about every system involved
in the running of the engine.

Jeremiah



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