[DML] Re: Engine vacuum problems?

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Yu have to kind of roll the intake into the valley making sure not to
unseat the "O" rings. I then slide it around a little to smear the
silicone and line up the bolt holes. Insert the bolts, snug them up
and then torque them in a rotational pattern. I leave the ignition
wires and injectors out and out of my way, it is easy enough to
install them after installing the intake manifold. On a motor I
recently did I had a vacuum leak at one of the "O" rings. I attribute
it to the fact that I did not slide the intake around that time. It
must not have competely sealed causing the vacuum leak. It drove me
nuts till I found it and I did not like having to remove everything to
fix it! I don't think you are going to warp the intake. The Workshop
Manual has the torque. To look for vacuum leaks I use a propane bottle
with a short hose. Get the ones that are used for soldering pipes and
take the nozzle off. Slip a short hose over the end. Now when you put
the hose near the suspected leak open the valve for a moment. If the
engine speed changes you are near it. You must be VERY careful. A
stray spark from bad ignition wires will run your day.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxx> wrote:
>
> The hose going to the booster is the one I'm removing in order to 
> hook up the gauge. You say make sure the intake is properly 
> positioned, all I'm doing is resting the intake down and putting the 
> bolts in finger tight-and then torque them. Is there something I'm 
> missing? Which reminds me, is there a sequence for the intake? Is it 
> possible for the intake to warp? I'm not sure how to make sure the 
> intake is sealing other then the starting spray method. Thanks for 
> 







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