Below is my original message regarding a hart starting issue I had. To bring you up to date, I've resolved the cold starting aspect. After cleaning the warm up regulator electrical connections, my car cold starts easier now. Last week I received the fuel pressure gauge and hooked it right up. All the pressures checked out with the pump running (as expected since the car would otherwise run fine). However when checking the rest pressure, it would start at about 3 bar, hold for about three minutes and then slowly drop to 0 over two minutes. Since then I've replaced the o-rings in the PPR and confirmed the injectors aren't leaking, but still have the rest pressure drop too soon. So I have just the check value and accumulator left. Am I correct in assuming that because the pressure briefly holds then slowly drops, it's the accumulator? I would think that if the check valve was somehow stuck, I would loose pressure a lot faster then 5 minutes. If it turns out to be the accumulator, then it failed after about 3 years. Since the PO replaced it, I don't know if it was NOS or new, so I can't contribute to that debate. Thanks for the tips so far. I feel like I'm on the home stretch of fixing this problem. Chris >Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:46:45 -0700 >Subject: [DML] Hard start problem > >I'm having a bit of a problem starting my car. When the engine is warm, it >has the typical hot start problem. After about 20-30 seconds of cranking, >it finally turns over. It may stumble for another few seconds before it >gets up to idle speed. But afterwards, the engine runs perfectly. As for >the fuel system, the accumulator was replaced about 3 years ago. The fuel >pump/check valve, fuel filter, and O rings in the primary pressure >regulator were replaced within the last year. > >Now here is where it really gets interesting. If the car has been sitting >for more then a day or two, it has problems cold starting. It will usually >fire right up for a second then die. This tells me the ignition system is >working and so is the cold start valve (directly tested as well). Once the >engine starts, it's just like the hot start were it stumbles for a few >seconds before reaching idle. > >I'm not too sure what the problem is here. The technical manual says for >hot/cold start problems only, it's the air sensor rest position. However it >sits flush with the funnel, so I don't think that's the issue. Is it >possible to have a bad warm up regulator and dirty injectors without >causing problems once the engine is running? Or do I need to just cave in >and get a fuel pressure gauge to test the different pressures? > >Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, >Chris >VIN 4099 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/