This sounds a lot like my problem: hard to start when sitting in the hot sun at first, but slowly got a little bit worse so that overnight it wouldn't start either. My car was running too lean. My turning the itty bitty allen in front of the fuel distributer and under the little rubber plug (counter clockwise I think) to enrichen it was much better and I haven't had problems other than hurricanes since. I don't think those two are related. :) I've been running the platinum plugs. It's been about 10-15k miles so they could be done for, and that may be contributing to this issue I was having. I don't think the platinum or the quad prong plugs are worth the money. -Kevin (back home with a safe #4687 who wants to go for a drive but the party of the first part is tired of driving and tomorrow will be soon enough) On 9/25/05, Chris Almy <chris.almy@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > I'm having a bit of a problem starting my car. When the engine is warm, it > has the typical hot start problem. After about 20-30 seconds of cranking, > it finally turns over. It may stumble for another few seconds before it > gets up to idle speed. But afterwards, the engine runs perfectly. As for > the fuel system, the accumulator was replaced about 3 years ago. The fuel > pump/check valve, fuel filter, and O rings in the primary pressure > regulator were replaced within the last year. > > Now here is where it really gets interesting. If the car has been sitting > for more then a day or two, it has problems cold starting. It will usually > fire right up for a second then die. This tells me the ignition system is > working and so is the cold start valve (directly tested as well). Once the > engine starts, it's just like the hot start were it stumbles for a few > seconds before reaching idle. > > I'm not too sure what the problem is here. The technical manual says for > hot/cold start problems only, it's the air sensor rest position. However > it > sits flush with the funnel, so I don't think that's the issue. Is it > possible to have a bad warm up regulator and dirty injectors without > causing problems once the engine is running? Or do I need to just cave in > and get a fuel pressure gauge to test the different pressures? > > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, > Chris > VIN 4099 > > > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see > www.dmcnews.com <http://www.dmcnews.com> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > -- -Kevin [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/