Re: [DML] High idle

["Derek" <derek.grozio@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hey,

The throttle is closing fully, and I have not messed with any of the cabling or screws since 
receiving the car. I do not mean to be disrespectful to anyone and not try everything 
suggested, its just that I have posted this question in several places and have received 
several different suggestions and am working my way through every one. Tonight I 
disassembled the area around the microswitch and unbolted it from the engine. I tested 
the top wire, and not being all that familiar with a multimeter, was able to get a reading on 
the top wire. I then tested the bottom wire, and with the switch both engaged and 
disengaged, received no reading on the multimeter. These tests were done with the engine 
off and the key in the ignition "on" position. No noise was evident from the idle motor. I 
also took the suggestion to use incence to test the vaccum hoses and see if any smoke 
was sucked into the lines. I tried this for about 10 minutes around all the hoses and could 
see no such sign of a leak in the lines. I also proceeded to start the car, while plugging in 
and unplugging the idle motor, again, when plugged in, the car idled at 2000, and 
unplugged, around 1450. I hope this could help make a better determination of what is 
wrong, as my next test will be to swap an ICU to check for a malfunction. Thanks.

-Derek


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx> wrote:
> Derek,
> I am no sure if this proves it. If the idle motor doesn't vibrate and
> make that noise, then the idle ECU might be defect.
> But what difference would it make then  if you unplug the idle motor ?
> 
> The motor can't change the position/angle by itself, there is no spring or
> so
> installed that would close the valve or at least turn it back to a certain
> position.
> 
> If the power stage of the ECU would be faulty and set the motor/valve
> to fully open, then it would stay there no matter what you do with the
> connector.
> 
> Of course when you touch the motor you also move it a bit. When the hoses
> are
> leaking this might change something.
> 
> Did you test the rest I asked you to ?
> 
> In another email from today I posted some links to pictures how to test
> the idle motor.
> +12V on the center contact/spade
> Then connect one of the side contacts with ground. just for a second or so.
> Then connect the other side with ground.
> each time you change you should hear the motor turning to the other
> direction.
> All you hear is a "clack" then the valve is fully open or closed.
> 
> If it doesn't do that - the motor is faulty, maybe the bearing is rusted.
> 
> The coils can be measured, too. 14 Ohm between the center and each outer
> contact.
> To test the ECU it needs more electronical tools that most people won't have
> at home.
> 
> Please check these points and give us a feedback. The whole thing
> isn't complicated but most do have problems with it. I'm trying
> to find out what problems people have with it to make a HowTo.
> 
> Elvis & 6548


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