[DML] Re: hot outside, no start discussion

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The only accurate way to check fuel system pressures is with a high
PSI gauge & fittings (I think John Hervey rents one), but there are
some low tech diagnostics you can perform in the interim:

First & foremost, when you lower the air sensor plate manually (engine
off), does it provide resistance and does the metering piston make a
high pitched weeping sound, or is it floppy and the metering piston
silent? Resistance means there was at least some residual system
pressure (which you have now released).

The same test can be performed with an injector pulled if you want to
see if there was enough presure to make it spray once.

Jumping the RPM relay forces the fuel pump to spin. Immediately after
doing so, system pressure should be the same as during cranking for
the same tests.

Thermal Time Switch is temperature opened, but usually by hot coolant.
Simply put a continuity meter between the line in (White/Red per
wiring diagram) and the block to see if sunlight is doing the same.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, kjc <ckevinj@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> Hmm... interesting. The only trouble I ever have starting is if it is
> sun-soaked for a couple of hours. And doing the cable switch, AKA
> hot-start quick-fix, does the trick.
> 
> So I should be checking the check valve on the fuel pump or primary
> pressure regulator next. What about the TTS (thermo time switch)? I
> suppose I should patch into it and see what it is telling the system
> cold, vs. running hot, vs. sun-soaked hot.
> 
> How does one check the PPR? Checking the fuel pump check valve would
> be last resort and may as well replace it all when I get in there.
> Thought, I looked into the PO records, the fuel pump combo kit was
> done 7.5 years ago (with the accumulator). I don't see that (assuming
> it is 102808) in parts replaced back 12/97, and I know I haven't done
> that.
> 
> 
> -Kevin
> #4687






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