[DML] Re: idle problems

["Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I've seen (twice) high idle caused by complete failure of the idle 
control computer (using the term loosely). The test was to unplug the 
computer, then the car would idle slow and somewhat erratically. 
Swapping in a known-good box was the diagnostic technique, mostly 
because I had another one handy. 

Dave


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Warren Wallingford" <warren@xxxx> 
wrote:
> 
> The flurry of talk lately about idle control problems, especially --
-

> To check the idle motor, grab it with the key on.  If it's 
vibrating, generally it's OK or will be. Spray some WD-40 into the 
throat and give it a couple of firm raps with the tuning hammer. If 
it's not humming, check the connection on top.  Peel back the boot to 
see that none of the little connectors have backed up into the boot.  
If by this time, the motor doesn't respond, you're in for an idle 
ECU.  Also, there is a temp sensor that tells the ECU to let more air 
in when the engine is cold-the Contant Idle Switch or Thermister.  
These go bad in a characteristic way.  The engine will idle fine 
until it warms up, then as the engine warms, will rev higher until it 
settles into a 2000-2500 rpm idle.  The thermister is located in the 
coolant distrubution pipe under the intake manifold.  It cannot be 
unplugged or overridden exept by disabling the ECU.  This failure is 
very irritating.
> 
> After all this, if the idle won't be controlled, there is surely 
extra air coming from somewhere.  Find it.
> 
> Pictures for the idle motor, ECU, Solenoid and Thermister are 
behind the links.
> 








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