(Comments apply to DeLorean PRV as well...) If you have an opportunity to increase compression, go for it. Provides the same benefits as forced induction without all the complications. PRV's can obviously handle 9.5:1 no problem (in the B280 redesign, compression was even increased to 10:1). Just make sure your pistons match the liners. Also go for the highest cam lift possible. Will pull maximum mixture into the cylinders. Make sure your engine DOES have PCV connected. Not only ensures that damaging internal pressures do not build up, but goes a long way towards avoiding sludge under the valve covers. If you've got the breather hose connected but not the calibrated nipple, you are probably sucking oil backwards into the intake. I believe the dual barb spark advance is Volvo's attempt to avoid over advancing ignition (what is base time on your EPA sticker?). Ford did the same thing in the 1970's when base time was advanced all the way to 16 degrees. Under certain conditions vacuum is shot to both barbs, disabling it. That's the purpose of the solenoid your inner hose is routed through. E series engines simply run one hose from the ported barb under the throttle plates straight to spark advance. You can do the same using the outer barb. Be sure to then time your ignition at 10 degrees BTDC (900 RPM). Vacuum advance is superceded by centrifugal advance at higher RPM's anyway. All fuel distributors have lower chambers. Non-Lambda models feed them internally at full line pressure. Lambda models feed them externally at moderated line pressure. By simply unplugging the frequency valve you can accomplish the same thing. John Hervey sells barbed banjo fittings and high pressure hose if you want to bypass it altogether (flexible hoses do not affect performance between CI and the tank). My previous Renault installation didn't even use banjo fittings in/out of the fuel distributor, but had inline barbed fittings with whatever that thread pitch is (x1 I believe). Series 018 CPR is not far removed from Series 038: starts at ~6 PSI and warms up to ~51 PSI at 155 degrees. Also has the same full throttle enrichment mechanism (do NOT try to plumb it like a Series 066. Simply run a single hose straight to full manifold vacuum). Was used on B27E through 1979, and thus would be a perfectly suitable substitute for the later Series 038. I've never had an engine with deceleration valves, and thus can not comment on their merit. Ostensibly Douvrin introduced them for a reason. Of course even the greatest innovations sometimes succumb to age or mileage. I'm guessing their purpose is to smooth out some of the undesirable characterics endemic to PRV's (that's Volvo's stated purpose of the separate B28 throttle plate assembly). I seem to remember the transition between idle and throttle on my Renault Z7 (B27) block being less than seamless (manual idle, not CIS). Be aware that running your engine richer can negatively impact a catalytic converter. Overall engine temp will be reduced (you may want to bump the thermostat closer to 200 degrees). Exhaust will be much cooler too, especially if you jetison the converter, which can accelerate rust. Needless to say emissions testing will be out of the question. And don't neglect your ignition. I'm a big fan of high voltage coils and wider spark plug gaps. Perhaps that's the only way I'm able to combust all this fuel... Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Rick DeVaux" <rdevaux@xxxx> wrote: > > Bill, Thanks for the great reply. Since I have new cams and pistons I'm > planning on a rebuild, but that will wait for at least a year. Engine is > fun to drive as is (no smog pump / EGR / PCV same as a Delorean) but I'll > likely remove the Lambda system once I find a 038 CPR. A few questions for > you: > My current distributor vacuum advance does have the two barbs. Do I just > cap off the "inner" barb? Is there any difference between the E and F dizzy > curves? > What is the "best" way to remove the Lambda system? What needs to be > capped off and what needs to be completely removed? > What's the best way to configure the fuel distributor sans freq valve? > Do you recommend removing the deceleration valves and filling in their holes > or replacing the throttle plates with the ones from the B27 or leaving as > is? > Once the Lambda is removed is tuning basically setting desired timing and > CO? > > Since I've got the B27 to play with I was considering looking at head > porting possibilities. Any tips, pointers or warnings? Thanks again for > the reply, Rick To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/