Re: [DML] Starting problems... cold, now warm.
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Re: [DML] Starting problems... cold, now warm.
- From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:39:58 -0000
Does your fuel pump go into a "prime" run when you first turn on the
key? It should. You might also want to check out the RPM relay and
its connections. I agree you problem sounds like fuel if the cold
start plug swap thing starts it.
I had a similar issue a few years ago and, of all things, it turned
out to be the spark amplifier relay that turns on with the starter -
it is mounted on the engine compartment firewall under the resistor
and feeds an increased voltage to the coil at start. I haven't seen
the relay in any circuits on any wiring diagrams either. They all
show a direct feed. The relay and connections are subject to a lot
more stress in the engine bay so a nice new weather-tight relay with
connection grease solved my problems.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx> wrote:
>
> The "warm start" issue has come up before, but has never been
> adequately resolved, IMO.
>
> I have been plagued with this problem for years. My car starts
> perfectly when cold and when hot, but there is a small temperature
> window (presumably in which the engine is just barely too warm to
> engage the thermo-time switch) in which it just won't start w/o
forcing
> the cold-start injector via a plug swap. My fuel system holds
pressure
> very well (by direct measurement), and the problem has survived a
> complete tuneup (except setting valves) and a replacement of the
> thermo-time switch.
>
> My best guesses are
> 1) there is a bad batch of thermo-time switches out there whose
> setpoint is too low. (Been meaning to test mine)
> 2) I have a subtle vacuum leak (but if so, I sure can't find it)
>
> Sure would be nice to get to the bottom of this. In my case the
> "critical cooling period" exactly coincides with a leisurely
dinner at
> a nice restaurant.
>
>
> On Feb 20, 2005, at 10:30 PM, Travis Graham wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I seem to have traded a cold start problem for a warm start
problem! A
> > good trade? I don't think so... This one's a bit lengthy, but I
want to
> > get all of the facts out on the table. Thanks in advance!
> >
> <snip>
>
> > Yesterday I started up my DeLorean (and it started right up with
no
> > hesitation after sitting for a week!) and went for a good
drive. I
> > parked it for about an hour, then went to leave and it wouldn't
start!
> > It cranked and cranked but had no intention of firing up. The
fuel
> > pump was working, as I noted its usual hum after letting off of
the
> > key. After three rounds of this, I jumped the cold start valve
using
> > the control pressure regulator's wire and it started right up.
I drove
> > straight back to its garage, turned it off, and then immediately
tried
> > starting again. It fired right up. And 30 minutes later, it
once
> > again fired up with absolutely no hesitation. Unfortunately I
had to
> > leave before it had cooled off enough to be in the "warm but not
hot"
> > zone... and I haven't had a chance to resume experimentation.
> >
>
> <snip>
>
> >
> > Given my symptoms and known factors, (and without having a
chance to do
> > further investigation), I would assume that my most-likely
problem is a
> > bad fuel accumulator. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a
> > problem with hot starting before and I've owned this car for 8
years
> > and put 40k miles on it. So, here are my questions for the
group:
> >
>
> --Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
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