Rich - This brings to mind a theory that I have heard, and fully agree with, about this phenomenon where the master cylinder goes bad shortly after a flush and bleed job. For virtually the entire service life of the brake master cylinder, it goes through about half of it's available stroke. At the halfway point, the pedal gets "hard" when the pads contact the rotors and push back on the hydraulics. Over the course of time, the rubber cups in the master cylinder wear a little away from the cylinder bore, and create a slight ridge at the end of the normal stroke. Then, when an owner decides to do the right thing, and flush the system, the normal method is to "pump and hold" for the flush and bleed process. This runs the piston inside of the cylinder through the entire stroke, and over the ridge half way down the bore. That is where the rubber cups get damaged, and begin to leak soon afterward. The solution to all of this is to use one of the pressure bleeders to flush and bleed the entire system without running the master through an unusually long stroke by going through the "pump and hold". I plan to carry the pressure bleeders soon, at DPNW. The other vendors do the same thing, and I would highly recommend that every serious DeLorean owner invest in one of them. Toby Peterson VIN 2248 (Winged1) DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC www.delorean-parts.com --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxx> wrote: > Keep in mind if you do replace brake fluid that has not been replaced > for a long time, you may end up having to change most if not all the > system pieces within a few months since the older parts become the > weak link in the system and tend to leak with new fluid installed. > An example is changing a clutch slave and not the clutch master, even > though the parts are the same age and the master may seem ok now. > Almost every time, the master starts to leak the new fluid within a few > hundred to a few thousand miles, almost like clock-work. >