Re: idle revisited [Mode Switch]

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Actually line to mode switch (from vacuum canister) is quite large: 
1/4". Factory original is made of hard plastic, subject to crack. 
That's what happened to me on trip to SEDOC. Totally barbeque'd 
driver's side plugs. See pic in #5939's photo album (especially 
compared to passenger side plugs -- vacuum leak isolated to passenger 
side rail. That's how I isolated leak so quickly. Hard plastic line 
has since been replaced with 1/4" fuel line hose).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> 
wrote:
> If the mode switch isn't working first check that it is geting 
vacuum.
> If you hear it hissing and it seems to change the noise when you 
turn
> it into different positions then you probably need to at least
> lubricate it. It should turn easily and click into positions 
without a
> lot of force. In Ken's latest magazine he does a whole article on
> rebuilding it. You may require a new rubber diaphram. It is a small
> round black piece of rubber with channels in it to send the vacuum 
to
> the correct ports. It wears and dries out and cracks. If it is in 
good
> shape a little grease may be all you need. Of course this is 
assuming
> all the actuaters are working and all the hoses are connected. As 
bad
> as vacuum leaks are the mode switch doesn't seem to have all that 
much
> of an effect on the idle (it still shouldn't leak).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "D F" <funkstuf@xxxx> wrote:
> > This is a very interesting letter and it makes me think about a
> problem I'm 
> > having.
> > 1.) My system seems to idle properly when cold, then about 1000 
rpm
> when 
> > warmed up.
> > We have spent substantial time eliminating vacumn leaks but....
> > 2.) My heating switch does not work properly, ie) if I switch 
from