Re: [DML] Very basic question about SS clutch line replacement

["Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx>]

>From under the car (or from above if you know where to look and/or 
take the engine cover off) find the slave cylinder. On the end of it 
that faces toward the front of the car there's a rubber boot that the 
pin for the clutch fork comes through. 

Peel back the rubber boot slightly from the body of the slave 
cylinder. If any fluid runs out you need to replce the cylinder. It 
can leak quite a bit (about a tablespoon) into the boot before it 
runs out on the floor (and removes the epoxy from the frame under the 
bellhousing).

Regarding the drain plug - that drip can either be clutch fluid 
(brake fluid) OR can be transmission oil. Careful with that drain 
plug, it is fairly easy to strip the threads in the aluminum housing. 
It's holding in about a gallon of 90-wt oil. 

Slave clyinder can be changed with the trans in the car from 
underneath. Pain in the neck, easier on a lift but not manadatory.

Dave S <--about 3 threads left on the trans drain plug hole - 
helicoil at the next service....

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michael Paine <mpaine@xxxx> wrote:
> > So here goes... It was my understanding that the clutch line 
> > connects from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, and that 
> > the slave cylinder can only be accessed while the transaxle is 
out. 
> 
> Not true at all.... I replaced both my master and slave cylinders 
without
> removing the transaxle.
> 
> > On a related note, the drain plug bolt on the bottom driver-side 
of 
> > my transaxle looks 'moist.' There is no puddle formed, even 
after 
> > sitting in the same place for 4 months, but it has a wet look to 
> > it. What could this mean? The liquid feels oily and clear 
color. 
> 
> personal guess is there is a weeping leak - enough to make it wet 
but not enough
> to drip... I would get something and clean it off really well and 
see if the
> moisture returns.