The solenoids don't seem to fail all that often. You could do a continuity check to make sure they aren't grounded and do have continuity. The resistance on both of them should be the same (I have to look up what it should be but in any case they should both be the same). If it shifts at all then you can assume they work. Late shifting, erratic shifting, missing shifts usually indicate a misbehaving shift computer. I would leave the shift solenoids alone. The wires and the plug becomes brittle and you will have to replace the "O" ring seals if you remove them. Change the trans fluid and clean out the pan and magnet. Clean the filter as per the procedure at DMCNEWS.COM. The less you do inside the better. I would recomend checking ALL of the external adjustments though. Follow the procedures for checking the fluid level in the trans AND the final drive. While you are under the car inspect the output seals on the final drive and the C/V boots(4). If any of the boots are cut or torn they should be replaced quickly and the joints cleaned and relubricated. Minor wetness on the output seals isn't bad but if it is wet and dirty then you need a seal and possibly the output flange. BTW you can remove the shift computer without touching the solenoid wires or plug on the trans. You remove the 3 large brass hex nuts in the round plug on the firewall, remove the metal clip holding the wire and leave the wire to the solenoids in the car. Just make sure to note which color wire goes to which terminal. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxx> wrote: > Ok everyone. Today (Wednesday) I'm going to get the computer governor out of the car. While everything is dissassembled and all, should I take out the old solenoids as well? I mean, while it's all apart and all, might as well knock out 2 possible problem areas while