Re: a little more idle work needed

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Since you're having trouble with A/C engaged check line to HVAC mode
switch, switch itself, ductwork diaphragms, and the little line back
to heater core shutoff valve.

I was leaking at rubber harness into switch and the hard plastic line
back to heater core shutoff valve (actually broken in a couple of
places). Couldn't hear leak with car running but definitely was there:
barbequed all 3 spark plugs on driver's side of block to/from SEDOC.
Passenger plugs were OK (a little white but not melted) -- that's what
led me to systems attached to passenger rail takeoff. Since my HVAC
mode switch is tight I simply transferred ductwork hoses directly to
switch nipples. Replaced hard plastic lines to/from switch with rubber.

Ran compression check to ensure valves not damaged by high combustion
temps. Basically 170 psi whole way around, with highest reading on
cylinder #4, so think I got away lucky this time...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> List,
> 
> As you have read the last couple of weeks, i have come a long ways
towards 
> making my car's motor and idle tuned properly. Well, it is damn
near perfect in 
> the garage when it is started up cold and allowed to warm up by
itself. then 
> it runs more or less flawless.
> 
> today was the first day i actually drove the car since then (been
putting my 
> interior back together) and i have noticed a problem or two.
> 
> 1. sometimes at idle, it never seems to really want to settle down
smooth. 
> sometimes it sounds squirrely, other times it is ok. now like
oscillating up 
> and down such as when cold, it is on a much lesser scale, but my
RPMs and oil 
> pressure still fluctuate and you can hear it running a little rough.
> 
> 2. with the A/C on, it is always squirrely sounding.
> 
> now when i got home in the driveway, it was sounding kinda rough. 
> here are the things i know:
> 1. all ignition parts are new and properly installed
> 2. all fuel pressures are ok
> 3. idle speed switch is being tripped and idle stop screws for the
throttle 
> are adjusted properly for idle speed take-over. also checked the
idle speed 
> switch and it does work properly. how do i check the idle motor for
proper 
> reception of information?
> 4. timing is good and advance works properly
> 5. all vacuum hoses are set up properly and are either new or verified 
> leak-free
> 6. new air filter, fuel filter, lambda sensor
> 7. rest of fuel system was checked by grady and verified ok
> 8. when i push down and hold the full throttle switch, the engine
runs worse, 
> which i suppose means it is working. 
> 
> when it is running kind of rough, i can hear the frequency valve buzz 
> changing from faster to slower, depending on the engine oscillating.
is this normal? 
> i can't tell which happsn first - the engine slowing down or the FV
slowing 
> down. sometimes it sounds like the car is running 100% smooth, other
times it 
> seems like it doesn't want to settle down. 
> 
> a couple theories i have are this:
> 1. the car had been set up poorly in the past with ignition advance
present 
> at idle, bad timing, and throttle plates not closing properly. i
was unaware 
> of these problems and i had the CO professionally adjusted with an
exhaust 
> analyzer at a Ferrari restoration shop. the mechanic was under the
impression i 
> gave that everything was ok except the CO (which had been messed
around with 
> prior). since then, i found the above problems and had them
corrected. i 
> suppose my CO is off now - would that cause these problems? is it
recommended i 
> find a dwell meter and check this out? i don't have one so i am not
sure if it 
> ok or not. timing was off about 6 degrees when the CO was set. i
remember the 
> mechanic saying he couldn't adjust the CO perfectly but it was as
good as it 
> will get (under those circumstances).
> 
> 2. the lambda sensor was replaced about 2 years ago and the car was
running 
> rich for a while after that. could it be fouled up and not giving
proper 
> signals? i don't want to touch it unless that is possible and
should be replaced 
> to be safe.
> 
> i also don't know if i am having any vacuum problems forward of the
engine. 
> how do i rule that out?
> 
> any ideas are greatly welcomed. i am running out of them!
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]