Re: Zinc Plated Frame

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

Of course before zinc-coating (galvanizing) the frame you must have
done any repairs like cutting out rusted sections and replacing. Zinc
coating cannot get into the lap and butt joints so you must neutralize
any active corrosion first. Zinc coating will add A LOT of weight so
be warned. You may have to cut access holes so all areas can drain
like tubing and boxed in areas. The hot-dipped galvanizing process
will get into all areas but you MUST provide adaquate drainage. You
will have trouble finding someone with a tank large enough and this is
expensive.
Consider an alternative. First remove the epoxy. This can be done
thermally (burn it off) or mechanically (blasting or grinding). Next
have the frame dipped. There are many places that can "dip" the frame.
It is a process that removes all rust and corrosion and is not very
expensive. Look in Hemmings Motor News for a place near you. After
dipping repair or replace all the missing metal. Finally primer and
paint with a product like POR 15. It is very duarable, lasts a long
time, is easily done without special equipment, and it won't add
significant weight. If you don't like the color it can be painted
over. It isn't as brittle as epoxy and is "self healing" like
galvanizing. IMHO galvanizing is overkill and will add too much
weight. Powder coating is great but it cannot get into hidden areas
and it has to be applied to SCRUPULOSLY CLEAN metal. It is very hard
to get a 20 year old rusty frame clean enough to get the benefits of
powder coating with all the joints, spot welds, and hidden areas.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Don Ekhoff <ekhoff@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> Greg,
> 
> It would be fabulous on the areas covered by both processes. The 
> problem might be that both coatings are subject to having poor coverage 
> where you can't see. The Zinc is an electroplate process there 
> electricity passing from the tank to the frame is responsible for the 
> coating. Where this current does not pass (line of sight) it does not 
> plate. The inside hidden spots would be poorly protected.
> 
> Likewise the powdercoat is applied electrostatically by puting an 
> electrostatic change on the frame and then dusting it with oppositely 
> charged powder. The powder sticks and is subsequently melted in
place. 
> Great process but it is really hard to get into the really tight spots 
> where you can't see.
> 
> This might be OK if you take a few additional steps. I recently 
> restored a bugeye sprite that had some long stiffening "u" sections as 
> well as numerous boxed sections that were very vulnerable to rust from 
> within. After carefully blasting, priming with zinc based paint (aka: 
> cold galvanizing) and a good paint job I applied undercoating to the 
> places I couldn't get to. I rigged up a spray tip on the end of a
nylon 
> tube. The tube was plumbed to a pressure tank filled with
undercoating 
> (valved as required). I then carefully fed the spray tip into the
blind 
> area, turned on the spray and slowly pulled out the tube thereby
coating 
> places I will never be able to reach.. The goo should have not only 
> coated the insides but should also wick into the lap joints ( I had 
> thinned it some). 
> 
> Powdercoat is great stuff and the zinc should only make it better.
> 
> Don Ekhoff
> 6543
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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