Re: [DML] Control pressure regulator gap

["Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx>]

Sorry but it's already back in the vehicle and working just great. The gap I
ended up using was 15 thousandths by trial and error.This equates into a
three to five minute warm-up time.(The wider the gap, the more time it takes
to close from indirect heat transfer) Inside the unit are two bi-metallic
devices. The first is a contact point set that is designed to limit the
electric heating element encapsulating the midpoint of the second Bimetal
strip once the heat of the engine has saturated the case of the regulator
itself. The second and more robust strip is designed to relieve the spring
tension on the primary diaphragm to allow a richer gas flow at cold start-up
via electro-mechanical means. The current is provided on the same circuit
that drives the fuel pump. (this must prevent inadvertent operation if the
key is on but the engine is not running) The vacuum line provides an
additional method of enrichment via the presence of a vacuum from the intake
manifold. The spring that flexes the primary fuel diaphragm is seated on a
secondary spring loaded rubber diaphragm. This moves up or down depending on
the vacuum available and can increase or decrease the flow of fuel
independent of the primary electrical method. (sort of like a trap door
under the main spring) An ewternal one way delay valve is also used to
provide a ten second delay in order to establish an actual condition
necessary for enrichment and not just a "vacuum spike". I am not an expert
on these units. The delay valve appears to be a standard "carb to
distributor" delay valve used on many foriegn cars in the timing advance
vacuum circuit. DISCLAIMER: The above is just what I could glean from casual
observation having never really researched one of these suckers before.
Either way, there is nothing much to them and they appear to be pretty
straight forward in design. They are definitely well designed and I would
imagine that most failures could be solved with a simple cleaning. Once you
tear one open, everything is pretty obvious. My opinion is: If yours is
"DEFINITELY" malfunctioning and you have some mechanical ability, don't
hesitate to crack that baby open and give it a good once over because
there's nothing delicate or complicated in there!
Rustproof (Rusty)
Vin #1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx>
To: <Rustproof@xxxx>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 4:21 AM
Subject: AW: [DML] Control pressure regulator gap


>
> Hey Rusty,
>
> can you email me a picture of the inside of the CPR ?
>
> I read that it looks different to regular CPR's, there should be
> two bimetal switches or something similar.
>
> The oil question always starts such a big discussion.
> That's why I told you. Get a good 10W40 and that's it.
>
> Regards,
>
> Elvis
>
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the correct gap for the bi-metal contact points inside
the
> CPR? Also, I would like to thank everyone that responded to my question
> regarding the correct oil weight. As usual, it was very enlightening!
> Thanks,
> Rustproof
> Vin # 1559
>