Check out following pic: http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/images/dmcpump/ml_engine.jpg THAT is why James' last paragraph makes imminent sense. Almost renders PRV as easy to work on as a domestic block! Last time I changed cap & rotor removed upper air assembly. Was bit of a pain in the assets. Am seriously considering re-routing wiring harness to passenger valve cover so in future I can simply remove intake manifold with upper air assembly still in place. No better way to monitor health of those hidden areas (and retrieve about $4.00 of dropped fasteners). BTW: I ensured no leaks on internal water pipe with 3 tests: 1) Look under intake manifold from above with an inspection mirror (shine a flashlight in there) 2) Look under intake manifold in person by sticking your head up by bellhousing (ouch) 3) Reach under intake manifold with a dry rag and feel around for moisture. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxx> wrote: > You're not the minority Bill, > While you're ALL THE WAY down in that area of the engine, why not > remove 4 more bolts. I broke a bolt on the pump.. but the four on the > internal water pipe weren't even hard to remove for me. > Granted; you can't just leave on out (like I did the water pump's) if > it breaks. > > But be careful Mark, when putting in those little orings.. it's easy > to knock one out of place and end up pinching it with the water > pipe... then when you don't test the pressure cooling system and just > put everything back together... you'll have twice the fun doing it > all all over again. > But who the hell would put everything back together with testing the > pressure?? Surely not me. > > Step two is giving up and shipping the car to Grady, and spending > twice what you had expected. And knowing it was worth every penny. > > And if you're not already -- give the car a tune up, and replace the > spark plugs and etc and fuel injectors while you have the intake > manifold off. Then pray. > > -James L 004009