Re: [DML] car mysteriously died

[dherv10@xxxx]

Martin, I doesn't short out it by passes. I did the diagram because the relay 
isn't shown on the original diagram. The diagram shows the blue/ yellow going 
straight to the resistor on the left side with no relay. The relay was added 
to me for safety and to make sure the resistor got the appx 10.4 volts if 
cranking properly for the instance the solenoid was engaged. I think if you 
got down to 6 to 8 volts you may have a bad battery or a mighty big drain 
from the starter. I don't think the car would start with voltage that low. 
The diagram should be correct. My 11004 runs on this for the last year or so 
with no problems.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com




<< The ignition coil cannot take 12v, so the feed to the coil passes 
through those two resistors. However as we all know, cranking causes the 
voltage on the battery to drop - maybe to as low a 6-8v when not fully 
charged. And of course when cranking, the one thing you really want is a 
decent spark! So, the purpose of that relay is to short out one of the 
two resistors giving the coil more of the available voltage to create a 
spark. The supply to the relay comes strait from the starter solenoid. 
John Hervey has a diagram on his website but I think it isn't 100% correct.

However, open or closed, that relay should not affect the coil getting a 
feed.... the only thing I can think of is that there's something 
seriously terminally wrong with that relay and it's grounding your coil 
feed!

I suggest you cut off and re-crimp all the connectors going to the 
ballast resistors, and clean up all the contacts. Also replace that 
relay. I have a nice new sealed plastic one with integral blade fuse at 
5A. My car now starts much better, especially on a damp morning.

BTW all through your post I was thinking "fuel pump" until you noted 
that it started and shut down fine. This tells you immediately that the 
RPM relay is working correctly, which was my first guess based on your 
symptoms.
>>