Re: [DML] Door Lock Solenoids

[dherv10@xxxx]

Raine, For 5 years I had no problems with my door locks with my 11004 I just 
sold.. The trick was to never lock the doors from the inside. All I did when 
I got the car was to replaced the two relay's inside the module and the 
diode. Worked fine from there 
after. No one ever replaces them and the contacts get very burnt. They are on 
the web site. Also replace the Circuit breaker to a 10 or 15 amp. Larger 
breakers will allow it to burn up faster if they hang up.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

<< ok...do you other guys have to mash on your Door lock switch to get it to 
work? I didnt think that was "normal" or working as intended...So along with 
having to tear down the door to fix my window problems, i figued i would 
investigate why the resistance of the door lock switch, also my remote 
control unit will lock both doors but will not Unlock the drivers side door, 
i figured (after inspection of the door mechanics) that the solenoid is worn 
out and needing to be replaced...when engaged it barely moved almost like the 
arm moves out and then back in....Just enough to move the pieces of the 
contact plate to lock the doors..it doesnt seem like it should be working 
like that. Have any of you had experienced that? I have not taken out the 
solenoid and inspected it yet, but i have been reading about some similar 
instances and wonder as well, if anyone has had thier solenoids "rewound" to 
give them back thier strength. I guess old age and or a combination of the 
old stock door lock module weakend the solenoids. Just wanted to know so i 
could possibly save 150 Bucks for a new solenoid.

any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
Raine M.
Vin # 1096
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