In a message dated 1/21/03 9:32:42 AM Central Standard Time, dsilek@xxxx writes: > 1) D. sits for 1 year > 2)Take D into shop to get waterpump installed, fluids, belts and window > motor and drop $1000. > 3) Go to start D. and it won't turn over. Mechanic gives it a shot of ether > and it starts. I have never had to give the D a shot of ether to get her > going. > 4) Drive D around town to charge battery and return to the house. > 5) After having been in the house for 10-15 minutes go back out to the D. > to > start her up planning to return to Fairfax, Va from my family home in Front > Royal and the D. won't start. I try the ether -- also a no go. > > Any clue? Hello, Well, from here we should know that the problem is probably either no spark or a fuel problem. First, when you took the car to the mechanic's, did it start up and run ok? if it did, then let's go to the next step. put a battery charger on the car overnight and try it again the next day. you may have a weak battery. if that's not the case, make sure the fuel pump is running. you can do this by jumping the RPM relay in the relay compartment behind the passenger seat and if that works, then at least the pump isn't dead. when you are in the compartment, check all your fuses too, they might be loose. the pump should be fairly quiet and sound like an electric fan. if it sounds loud or anemic, you need to check for blockage or twisted lines in the gas tank. next, no matter what happens, you should check to make sure you have adequate fuel flow from the pump. check the shop manual - i think the pump puts out one liter of gasoline in 30 seconds. check to be sure. just jump the relay and put the return hose in a liter container and make sure it fills pretty close. if that is all good, then the fuel system is probably functioning correctly. next check the vacuum hoses. it's very possible that the mechanic accidently knocked a hose loose. see your vacuum diagram and follow every hose for correct running. also poke around and look for loose wires. check your spark plug wires (they are easy to pull loose when working in there), check to make sure the cold start valve, idle motor, and CPR are plugged in. check all the wiring harnesses in the passenger side corner of the engine compatment. also make sure your three brass screws on the throttle body are lightly seated down. with the idle motor system, the brass screws are not needed for tuning. they should all be closed. speaking of the idle motor, make sure the brass tube that goes into the lower air meter housing is good and straight and tight. this can be checked with a flashlight on the outside, and also if you peek down the air meter you can see the brass tube sticking thru. from here it gets a little more complicated so why don't you try all of this first and see where it gets you. the next step is checking fuel pressures. do not try to adjust the CO screw at this point - it will only exaggerate the problem. you must make sure EVERYTHING else is cherry before you mess with that. good luck (i've been there before!) - don't worry, you will get it! Andy Soma576@xxxx 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596 Fargo, ND 58102 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]