Sealing top of windshield (Re: oozing windshield sealant)

["content22207 <brobertson@xxxx>" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Ford windshields circa 1980 are also glued in. Have cured leak on a
Lincoln and my truck same way, although I used basic silicone from a
gun (that stuff doesn't fool around -- clean up excess while it's
still wet). No problems after 3 years.

Question for Rick: "It, however, hasn't been exposed to rain, so my
success or failure is theoretical at this point. I hope never 
to test it." Your D doesn't come out in inclement weather? Kind of
defeats purpose of our "rustproof" little cars...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "twinenginedmc12
<twinenginedmc12@xxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> > Q: I've had wet carpets in the past; and now I've noticed what 
> looks like
> > tar oozing from underneath the windshield into the interior side of 
> the car.
> > Could this have oozed out and created a leak point? How can one 
> tell? Can I
> > take this to a shop and have it reseated?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Kevin
> 
> Hi Kevin.
> I've had this oozing problem on another car. The front windshield 
> bead used on DeLoreans is that squishy butyl stuff. It obviously can 
> dissolve under certain conditions.
> 
> I have successfully removed, and reinstalled my DeLorean's windshield.
> It was not easy. I think the only reason I pulled it off, is because 
> I've broken windshields on previous attempts on other cars, and have 
> learned from my mistakes. Also, a number of little unrelated 
> problems popped up that might have to be ignored by a professional, 
> who's after all doing it for the money, and is under a time budget. 
> No offense intended.
> 
> Having done the job, I know what I would do, and not do, if I were in 
> your shoes.
> I would remove the top windshield bezel plate, and seal the joint 
> between the top edge of the windshield with RTV sealant. Getting 
> this plate off is not too hard. The screws are hiding under the 
> weatherstripping.
> 
> I would be pretty liberal with the sealant. While I was there, I 
> would also try to seal the edges of the stainless steel bracket, the 
> one that holds down the bezel.
> For good measure, I would put a blob of sealant over the screws that 
> hold the stainless steel bracket down(if they haven't rusted to 
> powder, that is), completely covering the screw holes.
> 
> Also, I would cover all the exposed underbody material with a thin 
> layer of the sealant as well, to prevent moisture from penetrating 
> the material, freezing, and cracking it, like it obviously had on my 
> car.
> 
> I would put up with the slow dripping of the black goo, and clean it 
> off the inside of the windshield from time to time like I did on the 
> car I owned which had that problem. The only cure for that is 
> replacement of the windshield bead. 
> 
> It's overwhelmingly likely that only the top windshield bead is 
> leaking, so I would not worry about the sides, or the bottom of the 
> windshield.
> 
> I would not remove, rebead, and replace the windshield just for a 
> leaking top bead. This is certainly a very good and thorough thing 
> to do, but the risk of windhield breakage outweighs the benefit, it 
> would seem.
> 
> There's a good chance that the above tasks alone will seal a leak 
> between the windshield and underbody.
> 
> 
> On my car, I've done all of these things. (though I also removed and 
> replaced the windshield) It, however, hasn't been exposed to rain, 
> so my success or failure is theoretical at this point. I hope never 
> to test it.
> 
> You might ask John Dore for advice, who to my understanding has 
> successfully fixed his leaking roof and windshield.
> 
> Rick Gendreau
> 11472