Greg, You can use dipped tantalum ( 10 mf at 35volt) orange, as well as the metal looking case or solid tantalum.( I also use 4.7mf at 35volt metal case) Both have excellect moisture resistance. I use both. I have enough parts to rebuild about 15 units if you have a hard time. Mark is to my knowledge is no longer involved with Deloreans. He lived in the Dallas area and came by my office 2 to 3 years ago. Haven't seen or heard from him since. John Hervey www.specialTauto.com << In the dmcnews archives Mark Hershey wrote an excellent article with pictures about the rework done to the boards and identifying the replacement components. I have been searching for the tantalum caps he listed, but am having difficulty locating metal ones like the ones shown. I can easily get the correct values ( 4.7 to 10 microfarad, 20 to 50 volt) but not in metal, only epoxy (yellow) in radial or axial leads. I'm looking now in a Digikey catalog and see what looks like metal, but says ceramic. Also, solid tantalum, 'wet slug', tantalum capacitors or tantalum electrolytic capacitors, molded solid tantalum, please you EE guys help a ME out, I'm on thin ice here. Are they all the same except for size and rating? Also, the .1uf caps on the back side of the board I can only find epoxy and no voltage is identified. Earth to Mark Hershey. I tried your phone number listed in the DOD, it didn't work. This is the first automatic transmission I have ever worked on, and one of the caps is 'blown' like shown in Mark's write up. The car is my new VIN# 6214 with only 9,600 miles. Greg Linstad pndc.org VIN# 3507 "RUSTLSS" VIN# 6214 "RUSTLS2" >>