Payne Re: Sticky throttle

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

I see you're back on road. Good.

In stock application, idle speed is set by motor attached to driver's
side intake rail, totally blocking access to ignition distributor.
Should have been gizmo you replaced electrical plug on. Idle motor
doesn't care about vacuum. Does care about signal from its own
computer (behind driver's seat). Did you wire the new plug correctly?
Your motor could be bad, or the computer could be sending bad signals.

Unless your vacuum leak is tugging on the air sensor plate, should
DECREASE idle speed. Make sure your manifold screws are snugged down
and the throttle plates aren't cracked open (didn't forget to reset
them after fixing the idle motor?).

FWIW: automatic idle speed system is nice, but not mandatory. Mine has
been twitchy since I've owned the car. Motor must have originally been
sticking closed because engine would not run without adding air
through manifold screws. Now appears stuck open because even with
manifold screws closed idles at 3000 rpm. I aint' studyin' it -- motor
has been unplugged, air passages blocked off, and I'm idling happy @
900 rpm using screws. Replacement idle motor is $275.00. Replacement
idle computer is $275.00. Manifold screws are already paid for, just
sitting there waiting to be turned. Is a bit old fashioned, but much
cheaper and probably less troublesome in the long run. When summer
comes I'll bump up closer to 1,500 to accomodate A/C compressor.

You really need to find and fix your vacuum leak. Shouldn't be too
difficult -- these little cars don't have much of a vacuum system. But
remember: leak could also be at manifold itself (don't overlook the U
pipes -- didn't you just replace those gaskets? You've also got O
rings where the pipes meet the upper air assembly) or under the fuel
distributor. If you can't hear it hissing, use a can of carburetor
cleaner (with a straw for precise spray) to test every possible
source. Engine will rev up briefly when the carb cleaner hit it.
Vacuum also runs to dash to operate ductwork -- plug that line in the
engine compartment for easier diagnosis. 

Good luck...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm assuming this started because of the cold weather, but lately my car
> won't return to idle right away. It will drop down to 1,450 RPMs
and just
> sit there. A few jabs at the throttle will get it down again, but
it gets
> rather annoying as I don't like to shut it off if it's still dumping in
> fuel. Could this be part of my pesky vacuum leak that has been the
bane of
> my existence? All of my attempts to lubricate the throttle cable
have been
> ineffective. There's got to be a better way of doing it.
> 
> Thanks for all your time!
> 
> payne