With all of the confusion about the starting and idle speed circuits the first place to go is the Workshop Manual which every owner should have. Some of the easier things to check are the following: Find and fix any and ALL vacuum leaks including a hissing mode switch. Lightly seat closed the 3 brass adjusting screws on the air intake. Verify that the throttle is closing all the way and contacting the idle switch micro. Get a meter on the idle micro and make sure it conducts when the throttle is at idle. Make sure there is a plug over the mixture screw on the metering unit. If the motor hasn't had a tune-up in a long time when you finally get the idle down it will probably run rough which is why the idle has ben "bumped up". After a thourgh tune-up and cleaning-testing of the fuel injectors it should run smooth. You could also have a faulty contol pressure regulater, thermo switch, problem in the vacuum circuit for the vacuum advance etc. There are just a lot of things that can affect the idle speed and quality including timming and air-fuel ratio. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx> wrote: > When I first start my car from cold it idles at 950rpm as it warms up the > idle slowly increases to about 1200rpm when up to standard temp it never > drops below 1200 rpm. > > WHY? > > Where should I start looking. Is my idle speed box of tricks behind the > drivers seat playing up? and how do I test it. It seems to make no > difference if its plugged in or not. > > Thanks in advance > > Cheers > Paul & Mel > #6463 > > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.salsbury/