Now that I have had a few people tell me that the OEM fuel sender isn't worth repairing and to buy a Tankzilla instead, I'll say that I was doing just the opposite -- replacing my Tankzilla with the OEM! Crazy? Well, I'll explain. When I first bought my Tankzilla it had 3 problems: A leaky gap at the top where fuel would slosh around the gasket and out of the tank, a gasket that was made of the wrong kind of rubber and got very hard in a few days, and too large & too many holes in the bottom of the sender allowing the float to move too quickly giving me a continually wild bouncing fuel gauge every time I turned or changed speed. The vendors involved (DMC Joe & PJ Grady) eventually told me that it was defective and asked me to send it back so that they could send me another one. But first I was told by DMC Joe to just goop it up with Form-A-Gasket. I liked JB-Weld better, so used that to neatly fill the voids. When I mentioned this on the DML, then the (well something) hit the fan and I sorta upset some people by badmouthing a product that should have been replaced under warranty. Anyway, in a long discussion with Rob Grady, he explained that to address the too-sensitive float problem they were filling some of the holes in the bottom with rivets, but stopped doing this because it was labor intensive, didn't look professional (enough to suit Rob anyway :-) and made it harder to fit in the tank. Rob sent me a new gasket of better material BTW. These guys really stand behind their products (if you let them :-) Nonetheless, I think it is good to mention these things on the DML so that people will know to look for these problems on older units, but on later made ones I'm sure they worked the bugs out. (Not withstanding that I am the sort of guy that will find a problem if there is one to be found.) While I had the epoxy mixed up, I filled the two bottom holes in the aluminum and also filled the upper hole, but re-drilled that with a smaller bit. The results were worth the effort, but I still saw room for improvement. That was more than a year ago. Recently I removed the Tankzilla to fill two of the three slots in the blue plastic piece at the bottom to further decrease the float's response time. I was also curious to see how the epoxy held up to being soaked in fuel for more than a year. Well, JB-Weld is excellent. While I was working on the Tankzilla, I needed something to put back in the DeLorean since it is my only drivable vehicle. (Oh darn, the Suburban blew a gasket; looks like I'm going to have to drive the DeLorean again today. Well, I would rather drive that anyway :-) So that is why I repaired the OEM sending unit. I'm going to play with it for a while longer before going back to the Tankzilla because this tinkering is just plain fun! I'm taking photos & will write up a tech page on it when I'm done. I believe that the OEM can be made reliable, but there are several parts that need soldering. John Hervey's low fuel switch reworking is a good idea too. I think I'll try making something up out of flexible copper strips that skid by (or rub) each other at the bottom. Or maybe a weak magnet to hold it down when it reaches the bottom, but the float may not be buoyant enough for it to unstick afterwards. The Tankzilla could use something like this too, but it's not quite as bad. The electronic module that makes it compatible with the DeLorean has a delay built-in, but this could stand to be lengthened a bit (at least on mine.) Maybe newer ones are different. If you want to hear the beginning of this story, check the DML archives from last year where I mention Tankzilla in the subject line. Walt Tampa, FL