Some on the list have claimed success in "repairing" the OEM fuel sender. IMHO the OEM sender is a piece of cr-p. It is way too flimsy and prone to misreading and failure. The warning light is unreliable even when it works. The best thing you can do for it is to retire it to your "old parts box". Even I will admit a Tankzilla is expensive but once you put it in you will probably never have any doubts about fuel quantity. If you figure what it can cost if you run out of gas once or twice it makes it a little easier to accept the price. Even if you get the OEM sender to work how long will it work and can you ever trust it? On my old OEM sender the float seemed to have swollen and no longer moved freely inside the tube. I suspect between the aweful fuel additives and age it wrecked it. The Tankzilla seems to be fine. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote: > I took a stab at repairing my OEM fuel sender last night. I have discovered > that there are a lot of little things that go wrong inside of these -- > mostly from fuel residues causing bad electrical connections. > > The only problem that I have left is that it took 3 miles worth of driving > for the gauge to make it from empty to full (or should we call that 4/4?) > > Do these floats get less buoyant with age? I don't think it is likely that > I have the sliding contacts on the resistive wire too tight. And I'm sure > the float isn't jamming mechanically because it moved freely while dry. > > Any ideas? > > Walt Tampa, FL