Re: [DML] a better door launcher?
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Re: [DML] a better door launcher?



Actuators aren't very heavy - 500g maybe. And brake/throttle cable is steel inside a steel ringed sheath, and you'd get perhaps 3-4' of that to pull the handle, inside the door. Not worth the effort IMO. It'd also be a lot easer to fix/maintain an actuator inside the door. I don't really see that adjusting the torsion bar to take a relatively tiny bit of stress off it is going to increase its life much anyway. They don't often fail as it is.

As to the eagerness of your struts vs the counterbalance of your door. I don't know where the 4" "rule" came from, but if the torsion bar has enough twist in it to lift the door sufficiently for the gas strut to take over, that's all the bar needs to do. If you have to lift the door at all, then the torsion bar's not notched high enough. Remember the more the door goes up the less and less work the torsion bar is doing, and the more the strut is doing. Neither works without the other, and at the point of being closed, the strut provides zero lift to the door.

It does sound like you'd benefit from having the struts with the "brake" in them. I got mine from PJ Grady, and at least two other members who've seen how my doors work have said "right, I'm getting a pair of those struts".

Martin
#1458
DOC UK

Walter Coe wrote:

While doing extensive work in my doors, I've come across perhaps a better
idea for installing door launchers than weighing the door down with
additional hardware. My idea is to install the actuator (or solenoid or
whatever) in the T-panel or one of the electrical compartments behind the
seats. From there run bicycle brake type cables up through the T-panel and
into the doors. Technically the same could also be done with the door lock
solenoids which would take a lot of weight out of the doors taking strain
off the torsion bars & door struts.








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