Re: Overflowing with Antifreeze

[jtrealty@xxxx]

Although it could be a bad radiater pressure cap a more likely cause 
is a small leak. After several heating and cooling cycles you will 
lose enough coolant to trap air in the water pump and then it stops 
circulating coolant with the engine temp then climbing rapidly. You 
MUST pressure test the system to 15 psi for 15 minutes minimum. Even 
if you don't see any leaks if it can't hold pressure you must fix the 
source of the pressure loss. If the leak is on top of the engine you 
won't see the coolant comming out! It is very possible that you are 
still using the ORIGIONAL hoses and seals under the intake manifold 
and they are 20 YEARS OLD! If you want a reliable colling system the 
only fix is to replace ALL of the hoses and seals and belts and water 
pump. While you are at it idler bearings, thermostat and gasket, 
bleeder screw, otterstadt and seal, upgraded cooling fan circuit 
breaker and metal header bottle. If you can afford it a Fanzilla is 
also a must do item.( At the VERY least get rid of the fan fail 
relay!) Most of the Delorean venders sell what they call a Master kit 
with just about all of these items including silicone hoses and better 
hose clamps. Depending on your skill level and finances this is not an 
area of the car to skimp on. If any part of the cooling system fails 
the car overheats.( The chain only as strong as the weakest link 
scenario.) In summer heat with the A/C on the cooling system is 
working it's hardest and that's the time neglected systems have 
problems. Refill with 50/50 mix of soft water and a national brand of 
anti-freeze, bleed thoughly at the water pump and the radiater and you 
should be OK for a long time. Test the radiater cap with the pressure 
tester too. When you check the oil in the motor always put your 
fingers around the hose going to the water pump to see if the belt is 
cutting a groove into it on the bottom (where you can't see). If it is 
just bend the support bracket a little to keep the hose away.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757






--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxx> wrote:
> Mike Allred wrote:
> 
> > Today while driving my D. it was about 92 degrees and my 
temperature gauge
> > never showed hot but when I stopped and cut off the engine it was 
over
> > flowing antifreeze through the overflow hose. The radiator fan 
never cut on.
> >
> > Where do you think my problem is? Temperature gauge, fan, 
temperature
> > sending unit or other?
> 
> Because your temp gage never got high I will assume this is not an 
electrical
> problem. This is a plumbing problem.
> 
> Several things could cause these symptoms, but if you are lucky it 
is just air
> in your cooling system and/or low coolant. Top off your coolant, 
then bleed
> your system or install a self-bleeder.
> 
> The second most lucky thing it could be is a bad radiator cap. 
Considering the
> age of our car, I expect bad radiator caps to start coming up more 
often in the
> coming years.
> 
> Liquid cooled engines use pressure to keep coolant in liquid form 
even when they
> are heated above their boiling point. They operate in a very 
specific
> pressure/temperature range. The systems use spring-loaded radiator 
caps
> designed to release coolant if the pressure gets too high. Coolant 
is released
> through that overflow hose. Because it is hotter than its boiling 
point,
> coolant released by a radiator cap boils the instant it hit the 
atmosphere.
> 
> Over time a radiator cap spring and seal will wear out. When they 
do, the cap
> can release steaming coolant from an engine that is operating 
normally. Tjis
> might be exactly what happened to you.
> 
> You can test your radiator cap with the same pressure tester you use 
to bleed
> your cooling system. If you do not have a pressure tester, just 
inspect the cap
> visually. You might get lucky and find the cap is worn out and 
there is nothing
> else wrong with your DeLorean.
> 
> Either way, DO NOT drive a DeLorean with an overheated engine!
> 
> - Mike Substelny