Leaky Doors (long)

[DMCVegas@xxxx]

The location where you're describing the leak was one of the worst on 
my car. If you look at how the metal on the door curves to accomadate 
the front torsion bar hinge, you can see why. Here's a quick overview 
of how the drainage system works on the doors alone to help you 
understand the problems that occur, so that the solutions will make 
more sense. Plus you'll find out what makes the gullwing doors on the 
DeLorean so unique!

The gullwing doors consist of 3 seal types: Inner seals (snaped), 
outer seals (glued), and "spray" seals (bolted). All 3 are made from 
rubber.
Inner door seals are made to keep the passenger compartment sealed. 
This is the main seal which runs the entire peremiter of the door. 
Below the inner seals, the glassfibre underbody has been designed as 
a gutter the channel waterdown the sides of the car, and out along 
the rocker panels. Inner seals are outside the passenger compartment, 
but behind the door panel.
Outer door seals are located to sit between the outer door and body 
panels. This seal is designed to keep as much water as possible out 
of the gutters (also to possibly reduce wind noise). The outer seal 
only seals the sides of the doors.
Spray seals are located at the top between the door and the T panel, 
and at the bottom between the door and the rocker panel. The top seal 
in important because it keeps as much water as possible out of the 
gutters, and off the torsion bar (mainly while parked). The bottom 
seal is equaly important as it prevents road spray from the wheel 
from forcing it's way up against the inner seals (while driving). 
Water can enter the gutter from the top gaps between the upper spray 
seal and the outer seal. The gap between the outer seal and the lower 
spary seal is where water in the gutter drains out.

Here are the commom areas where the doors are prone to leaks, and 
what you need to do to waterproof your DeLorean by way of 
fixing/preventing them.

1. Headliners...
Even if you have a perfectly good rubber seal, headliners can 
circumvent that seal to cause a leak. The problem is that when the 
headliners are cut, the edges can be cut too long. What happens is 
the cloth will be pinched around the rubber door seal, and can access 
the gutter. When this happens, the cloth can 'wick' water into the 
passenger compartment. Think of an oil lamp, and how the oil makes 
it's up up the wick against gravity. Water will be sucked up thru the 
cloth, and will drip inside.
Solution: Lift the inner seal up, and trim back all cloth accordingly 
with a pair of scisors.

2. Poorly Seated Seals...
When installing the seals, you have to let the doors 'seat' 
themselves. When placing a new seal onto the car, most people will 
push the rubber down snugly as far as it can go. This is wrong. You 
can push the rubber down below where the door stops. This will create 
an open gap where water will flow thru.
Solution: When replacing the seal, only push the rubber down far 
enough so it can maintain a temporary grip. When you have the 
complete seal in place, simply close the door. The door will only 
push the rubber down as far as it needs to. With good rubber, you can 
create the pefect seal each time.

3. Damaged seals...
Over time seals can become cracked or damaged due to age, useage, or 
both. This cracked or torn seals will create gaps where water can 
leak thru. Worn rubber will lose it's plyability. This makes it less 
flexable, and keeps from from sealing against the door properly. Plus 
where the rubber twists (i.e. windshield angles), the rubber
Solution: To get the most out of your door seals, try rotating the 
inner seals. Swap both seals from side to side. This will allow the 
flexable ramaining parts of the rubber to take the tight upper 
twists. Just keep the seam twards the front of the door where it's 
least vulnerable to water. For craked and torn rubber, I reccomend 
instant gasket material. In itself, the instant gasket is just like 
rubber the you can form and mold as to how you want it. You can use 
it to reattach torn rubber, or you can rebuild missing gaps entirely. 
You won't win any concourse competitions with it, but it sure does 
the job. The instant gasket can also be used as an adhesive to 
reattach the outer seals if they have come loose over time.

There are more areas still when it comes to water proofing the 
DeLorean. But this is only meant to be a quick write up for the 
doors. But I can tell you with full confidence that these procedures 
have worked for me. I regularly powerwash my car, and I have no leaks!

-Robert
vin 6585



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jake@xxxx wrote:
> 
> well the car was outside today and we had some pretty average rain.
> 
> i've got a leak, but doesn't seem to be the door seals, in fact i 
> thought it was the windshield, but it doesnt seem like water could 
> get up under the ridge. the leak (as far as i can tell, although 
> water does tend to be sneaky) is up at the very front of the car on 
> the passenger side about 3 inches in from the edge of the sun 
visor 
> that is closest to the center of the car (puddled on the top of the 
> sun visor today).
> 
> anyone seen this? any ideas?
> 
> jake