Re: Craig Radio Flex Cable Repair
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Re: Craig Radio Flex Cable Repair
- From: dherv10@xxxx
- Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 03:30:24 -0000
Les, I Fixed my radio display about two years ago and put it out on
the group if they wanted it fixed I could do it also. I have only had
one other taker. Most people want to upgrade. Yes it was a bad
design. But your Fix and mine I feel are better than original. The
circuit wires flex better and arn't as stiff. Nothing is permanent,
not even us.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
> If you no longer plan to play tapes and just want your display
working,
> here are a few tips. First of all, as everyone cautions, you must
be
> able to solder well above average. The traces are close together
and
> you must get on and off quickly else the traces will lift up out of
the
> plastic and make you sorry you started the whole thing. The main
> problem beyond that is that the traces are in such close proximity
that
> it's very easy to solder across two or three traces at the same
time.
> Here's what I suggest. Start from one side only, whichever is
> comfortable for you, then just bare one trace at a time as you go
along,
> this leaves the traces in one direction still embedded in the tough
> plastic and you can kind of "lean" that way as you solder. To bare
a
> trace, use a sharp razor blade, or equivalent (I use a carpet
cutting
> blade) and scrape only enough to make the joint, appox. 1/8th inch
each
> side. The heat of the iron is also important, I use a 30 watt with a
> pointed tip (purchased at Radio shack for about $7). Too low
doesn't
> solder quickly enough and too high is too quick, there needs to be
sort
> of a rhythm.
>
> In removing the display assembly, detach the return spring from the
> case, not from the display, also, note the amount of tension, it's
about
> one turn, you should put the same amount of tension on the spring
when
> you refasten it. Not as important as if you were doing it with
wires
> and planning to play tapes, but why not do it right.
>
> My prototype had all 16 traces separated, if you still have some
intact,
> it's very easy to check with an Ohmmeter to determine which need the
> repair. There's a distinct crease where the breaks occur, no
problem
> finding that. I coated the finished repair with radio-TV service
cement
> but could be Duco or shellac or nothing at all, It's not going
anywhere.
>
> If this lacks clarity, let me know, it's hard to tell where
someone's
> skill level lies.
>
> Les
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