Re: Clutch Slipping.

["Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx>]

The pad on the clutch disk will pretty much absorb some amount of oil 
(or fluid) if left in contact with it. This said, if you do have a 
leaky slave and it did manage to leak into the bell housing and get 
onto the pad your pretty much SOL. Also another thing to note is that 
the rear main seal on the engine (right behind the clutch) tends to 
leak and get all over the clutch. If you pull the tranny to replace 
the clucth do the following:
1. Purchase a new clucth kit (I use Centerforces clutch, P/N 
CF12184). Don't attempt to try and clean your old one.
2. Get the flywheel resurfaced! don't have it "cut" like a 
traditional brake rotor instead have it "ground finished" your clutch 
will last longer. I know that some PEP Boys shops have the machine to 
do this, check with them if you have one in your area. I recomend 
resurfacing the flywheel even if it looks good to get rid of the 
glaze (shiney surface) so that the clutch will be alot more 
responsive and grip better.
3. Replace the rear main seal on the engine since you have it all 
apart. The seal is not expensive and is not all that hard to replace.
4. If the slave cylinder is leaking...Replace it don't even attempt 
to have or try to rebuild it.
5. Replace the Throw out bearing and Pilot bearing even if they seem 
good. If they go bad then you are going to have to do the entire 
thing all over (taking the tranny of the car that is). If you call 
Rob at PJ Grady or even DMC Joe they can instruct you on what grease 
to use on the Throw Out bearing how to apply it...VERY IMPORTANT 
especially if you have a early model D that has the metal sleaved 
Throw out bearing, they tend to rust and start to stick. I don't know 
what VIN thay started to install the Throw out bearing with the 
plastic sleave. From what I understand they are not interchangable.

You also might want to think about replacing the plastic (if you 
still have it) clutch line with the Stainless Steel one that the 
Delorean vendors carry. The plastic line begins to expand as it heats 
up. This will cause the clutch not to fully dissengage and after a 
long period of time (years?) can lead to burning your clutch. That is 
not likely what caused your clutch to go now but I suggest this since 
you'll have the entire clutch assembly with the slave cylinder out.

I know Rob at PJ Grady (and I am sure that the other D vendors have 
it too) a clutch rebuild kit that contains everything you need and 
with the choice of either using the OEM clutch or Centerforce one.

Steve Rubano


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> Back in September when my clutch begain slipping I had it replaced 
> (the old one was completely fried!). For the past 2½ month's 
> everything has been going fine untill last night. >snip<
>snip<
the slave 
> cylinder appears to have a small leak. 
>snip< 
2. Is there any type of degreaser or detergent 
> that I could safely spray up to clean the clutch? The other thing 
is 
> that for a while now the salve cylinder has been rather squeeky. I 
> daubed a little grease onto the piston while it was fully extended 
by 
> having someone else hold the clutch pedal in. While this has not 
> cured my problem either, the slave cylinder operates ALOT quieter 
now.
> Anyone have any ideas?
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 (the DeLorean from hell!)