Re: fan fail+ door module

["John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxx>]

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: I suggest that further discussion on I^2R (I squared R) heating and fuse ratings be taken offline. Let's keep the list helpful and constructive.]

Yes, 
I respect everyones opinion, but it doesn't mean were always going to 
agree. Go out to your late model car and unplug the alternator and 
you will find in most cases electrical grease. High voltage,low 
voltage,high current,low current it's used everywhere and anywhere 
and I have never seen a car catch on fire from grease. But I have 
seen them catch on fire from using gasoline. 
I to think it's time to discuss electronics in the De Lorean. Lucas 
designed the wiring in the car that seems to work quite well. I very 
seldom hear anyone saying to much about how the car is wired. I very 
seldom hear about the wires burning up unless there is a problem. The 
problem that I can see is what Lucas puts on the ends of the wire. 
Amp makes some of the best connectors in the world and the De Lorean 
has them all over the car. Bosch also makes great parts and they to 
are all over the car. The problems we all keep talking about are 
under rated items such as Relays, fuses, fuse holder so on. It's very 
simple for those that don't understand, current draw and voltage and 
the ratings of the items used. If you want to use a 40 amp fuse in 
the fan circuit then do so. But if the motors burn up because it took 
to long to blow, then you can blame it on some else. 
I chose to make the product fit the application. I use 15Amp fuses in 
my Fan Fail Fix because the fans draw 14 amp ea.and it offers maxium 
protection. They will blow quicker and won't over heat unless 
something else is wrong. Some people can't stand it if someone else 
comes up with a new idea such as The Fan Fix. It's so simple it hurts 
and it's a plug in and addresses more than one problem with the car.
If De Lorean would have used the right component and if people 
understood inductive load vs resistive load and De Lorean/Lucas used 
the right product for the right application then their wouldn't be 
The Fan Fix, The Fan Fail Fix , The Fan Zilla or any other Zilla 
product. We would have a 200 HP std engine or better. I hope the poor 
sole who comes up with a simple solution for HP that doesn't cost 
$7000.00 keeps his mouth shut. Instead of people on this group 
encouring people to come up with a better mouse trap, this group 
can't wait to criticize someone because they did something simple 
that works and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. 
Another example The De Lorean 140 alternator I build. With the 
exception of one alignment problem, reported they work fine, sold 
several and everyone seems to be happy and they don't cost $350.00 
for an alternator. If your not happy I will refund your money. 
In closing, I think this group including me should encourage change 
and people who want to take on the task, not sit back complain. Other 
people and shops are doing it or they wouldn't be coming out with new 
and better product. 
I would also like to thank Knut for his reply. I see very little of 
this to anyone trying to help. DMCJOE, hats off, Walter, always a new 
twist, David, great opinions. I have learned a lot from this group. 
I still Fix parts. 
Sincerely
John

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "jtrealty@xxxx " <jtrealty@xxxx> 
wrote:
> I think it's really creative for us on the list to discuss 
different 
> ways to compensate for the shortcommings of these 2 major areas of 
the 
> car's electronics. While some of the fixes are "interesting" many 
> people on the list are not mechanics or electricians. They are 
> looking for something that is simple to install and reliable. 
Instead 
> of trying to reinvent the wheel the Zilla line of products is 
exactly 
> what the car needs.There is something to be said for a standard fix 
so 
> that it would be easy for someone else to troubleshoot.If you build 
> your own fix then pity the next owner or mechanic to try to figure 
out 
> what was done.In addition to a "non standard fix" most people are 
> notoriously bad when it comes to documentation. All one has to do 
is 
> see a few of the "fixes" in the fuel pump circuit because the 
person 
> didn't understand the inertia switch or RPM relay.If you have not 
yet 
> installed the Lockzilla or Fanzilla you should. At some point your 
fix 
> WILL fail or your origional parts will fail and the price for the 
> Zillas will seem small compared to the aggrivation, towing, 
collateral 
> damage etc. on a second subject I have been using an eastwood 
product 
> called "KOPR-SHIELD". I can't yet say it is the answer to bad 
contacts 
> in the fuse block but I haven't had any problems yet. I suppose the 
> best protection is to keep the contacts clean and TIGHT. If the 
> contacts are not tight then a vicious circle of events occurs. The 
> hotter the contacts get the less tension on the connecters the less 
> tension the more heat until events run away and you have a melt-
down. 
> The first sign might be a smell.It would be very prudent to keep a 
> small fire extingwisher in the event of the unthinkable. On a 
recent 
> trip with another "D" his fan relay bypass wire melted and lead to 
a 
> few scary moments. Fortunatly there was no damage and we repaired 
it 
> temporarlay so he could drive home. The bypass wire was supposed to 
be 
> a temporary fix untill the factory could do better 18 years ago! 
How 
> many cars are out there running on the origional fan relay or the 
> bypass wire? The first thing a new owner should do is get the relay 
> and circuit breaker upgrades and 2 Zillas.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 YES I have installed the Zillas and they are GREAT