[DML] Re: door mechanism

[Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxx>]

Mike's driver's door problem sounds simlar to the one I had:

> It opened but the mechanism apparently would not
> open correctly and pulled the front striker came out.
> The striker mounting bracket is now loose, and stripped,
> so I will have to find how to replace that. But my big
> question is: what caused it? A bad door mechanism?
> Locking problem?

You need to check a few things. Does that door have door guides? Now
that the door is open, see if the forward latch operates the same as the
rear latch. With the latch in its closed position, hold a screwdriver
where the striker pin would be and try to open it. Then pull the handle
(with the door unlocked) and try again. Obviously the latch should
release now.

If the latch appears to be working then it probably is not closing
properly. It is possible, especially on cars without door guides, for
the latch to jam against the striker pin when the door closes.
Sometimes it opens fine, other times you are a prisoner.

If the latch is not working but also not damaged then you probably have
some loose linkages inside the door. You need to get inside the door
and check the lock linkage and the latch linkage. They can be adjusted.

If the latch is damaged then you probably need to replace the latch,
like I just did.

> Also, if I have to change the door latch, are any
> of these parts crossed referenced to other makes?

This would be nice to know decades from now, when I have to search the
junkyards for a DeLorean latch, but for now new latches are still
inexpensive from the normal DeLorean parts sources. I got mine last
week from DMC Houston, and I think it was $60 or less. Check their
parts/price list PDF at:

www.usadmc.com

FYI the linkage attaches to the latch via one of two holes in a nylon
bell shaped pivot. On my old latch the linkage was attached to the
closer hole, but when I installed the new latch I found my door worked
much better if I used the farther hole.

- Mike Substleny
VIN 1280


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