RE: [DML] grounds

["DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>]

Matt,

Although your ground substitutions may be a little overkill they are indeed
accurate. Good job!

DMC Joe  

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Spittle [mailto:supermatty@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 4:08 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] grounds




Having some experience with the DeLorean grounds, I can say that there's
been 2 places I've modified the factory wiring.  

The first instance is where the ground braid connects from the block to the
frame.  If your motor mounts are rusty, this could be making a very poor
connection.  If this connection gets bad, your starter will find a ground
through the shifter cable and melt the hell out of it to the point where you
cannot shift gears.



It doesn't make sense to me that the starter, the part of the car that uses
the MOST current out of anything else, should be connected from the block,
to the frame, to the battery.  So to make it "better," I ran a 0-gauge wire
directly from the battery to one of the transmission mount bolts.  This
provides a very direct path to ground for the starter, and eliminates the
junction between the battery ground and the frame, as well as the junction
between the said ground braid and engine block, and leaves you with 1 short
wire that's easy to look after.  

The other ground I modified was the alternator ground.  If your upper
alternator mount is rusty, this will also make a very poor connection.
 If you're like me, maybe you powdercoated or painted this bracket to detail
the engine compartment.  It will likely not be making much of a connection
at all.  To fix this, I ran a new 0-gauge ground wire from the alternator
housing to the engine block (could bolt it to the RH valve cover if you
like).  0-gauge may be overkill, but I have an 180 amp alternator, so maybe
not.  Plus, it happened to be the only "thick" wire I had available at the
time.  

Matt
#1604







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