[DML] Re: Manual Shifting questions

["Matt Spittle" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>]

The problem with your shifter is you need to adjust the cable.  You
can do this underneath the car.  There are 2 large nuts that you need
to adjust.  The procedure *is* covered in the service manual.

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Mike Polzin" <MPolzin@xxxx> wrote:
> I have a project car that I bought last year that I have been diligently
> working on restoring, and getting it back in the fleet of active cars. I
> have already replaced the steering rack - as a side note I highly
recomment
> the PJ Grady rack, very nice - and all of the clutch hydraulics -
slave and
> master cylinders. We ended up having to pull the steering wheel to
get it
> "straight" when the wheels were straight, but all is now good with
that. I
> continue to have two persistent problems that I need assistance with.
> 
> 1) The car shifts nicely through 1, 2, 3, 4 gears, but I can't get
it into
> fifth. I I have a sneaky suspicion that there is something goofy
with the
> shifter mechanism because when I push ot over to go into fifth the
shifter
> is up against the top of the console and can't go any farther to the
> right... as a result I end up in 3rd gear again. At 65 miles per
hour on the
> interstate that is not good. Ideas?
> 
> 2) Is there a way to test the frequency valve to see if it is
working? The
> car idles around 2000 rpms. The screws on the intake are snugged
down (they
> were not when I bought the car), and I tried adjusting the idle
screw with
> no luck. She still idles high. I have pulled out the computer behind the
> drivers seat and swapped it with a known good one. When I unplug the
> frequency value while the car is running, there is absoloutely no
difference
> in how it runs. I could not find any obvious vaccuum leaks.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Mike




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