[DML] Broken Bolt Extracted!

["therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxx>]

Many thanks to every one both on, and off list that replied to my 
post! The most unanimous solution that everyone agreed upon was the 
Dremel method, and it was quite a success!

Basicly, I took the Dremel, and the flex attachment, and used a 
tungsten-carbide engraving bit. It has a series of fine teeth, and 
had a round point, where everything swirls together, rather than the 
traditional 2-blade drill bit.

I used on of the 35,000 RPM Dremels, with the flexable attachment (a 
glorified speedometer cable), and hung it from the engine cover. I 
generally keept the speed at level 7 on the drill, and consistantly 
dipped it into some waste coolant I had left over, to cool, and 
lubricate the bit. What's nice about using an engraving bit, rather 
than a drill bit, is that you can move around, and cut away what ever 
portions you see fit. Being able to cut/grind with the side of the 
bit makes things go allot faster. So, you can either grind the 
extrator out. Or, you can dig it out, by cutting the bolt that holds 
it in place. This is even faster, because you can cut away most of 
the bolt, and can then knock the broken bit out with an awl, and a 
mallet.

Now, while removal of the extrator bit was a success, the removal of 
the bolt wasn't, per se. I tried a larger extrator bit, and it broke 
off in the bolt too. I tried using a less agressive extrator, and it 
wouldn't even grip. So to get the bolt out, I had to drill it out, 
and retap the threads. Note: If you go this route, make certain that 
you use a set of Metric Taps.

When I next get the chance to work on my car again, I'm going to 
pressure test the system, and will take everything from there.

Thanks again, everyone!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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