Re: [DML] Door Dings Due To Upgraded Window Motors

["Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>]

I can't resist adding another 2 cents here.  First, I think Ken is 
right on about the torque. The way I relieved the push was to add 
some height to the window stop with a steel hose clamp tightened 
just enough to stay in place above (on top of) the built-in stop. 
This too relieved a lot of the torque and allowed me to just see the 
top of the window when it is all the way down. Otherwise I couldn't 
see it at all. The main alignment issue that I saw was the plane of 
the window travel is not in alignment with the shaft tube both 
horizontally and vertically (this is where the flex of the OEM stuff 
works well). So, in order to get it to move as freely as possible 
some very careful bending is required - also some repositioning of 
the tube mount may help. I had a lot more trouble with the driver's 
door than I did with the passenger door too. By the time I got to 
the passenger door I guess I had the technique figured out and I got 
it adjusted with only a couple of ins and outs - still put a scratch 
in the tint though.

I would suspect that if a window is not in correct alignment to 
start - i.e. it moves up and down in the frame and on the rails 
freely, the new motors will add enough stress that the windows will 
definitely come off the rails and possibly damage the plastic 
brackets on the window. I guess my point here is - this whole window 
thing is not simple so be careful.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, kKoncelik@xxxx wrote:
> The upgrade window motors have a stop so that the window does not 
go down all 
> the way
> the way the bracket on the bottom is arranged it holds it a bit 
high in the 
> door and when the window comes down it hits the stop and puts a 
torque on the 
> shaft and it twists out into the door panel
> 
> By making a very minor bend in the shaft just before the elbow 
relieves it a 
> lot and if  you remount the motor a little it shifts the shaft 
down a hair and 
> that also puts the elbo a bit lower and away from the door.
> 
> You can also put a washer under the bracket where it attaches to 
the window 
> thus also forcing the bar in and away from the skin.  This is just 
a tweek and 
> is not going to make a big move like the other adjustment.  
> 
> There are a few other things to do but we did about half of what I 
said above 
> to Patricks car tonight and it barely touches now on the side that 
was about 
> 1/4 inch interference.
> 
> We will get it the rest when there is light 
> kinda got dark
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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