[DML] Continued: Removing Heater Core Supply Line

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Made myself a Tee from a piece of 5/8" pipe (steel) and a brass hose
barb. My radiator also has a brass barb to replace the plastic one
that broke off (passes all the way through the side channel with a
pipe cap on the other end, hole dilled in the side for radiator
passage access).

Bryan Pearce sells ready made Tees.

I'm guessing the original design is for ease of manufacturing. Allows
workers to simply drop the body on an already completed chassis.
Unfortunately it's also DOWNHILL to the radiator return line.

You get all sorts of wild sounds from the dash when you bleed through
the heater core -- gurgles, burps, etc. After they stop, you know the
system's air free.

My original intent was to jetison that piece of pipe. Found it
frustratingly difficult to reattach to the radiator. Plus mine banged
against the crumple tube, knocking the epoxy loose. I've simplified my
plumbing to 6 pipe sections: 2 in the engine compartment and 4 under
the car. Remainder is commercial grade hose.

I put protective collars on the hose sections that run past the
transmission and drive axles to protect them if they ever contact my
dual exhaust tubing. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Yep - your pipe is still sitting here on the shelf...  and keep my 
> plastic nipples out of it....
> 
> Now your talking though - how did you route the radiator bleeder to 
> the heater core (i.e. is there an added tee somewhere? did you use a 
> valve?)? That sounds like one of those "why didn't they think of 
> that" ideas. I generally get the cooling system loaded up, pressurize 
> and bleed it, then crawl under the front of the car, pull that hose 
> off, spit out the coolant I get in my face, and hook it back up. It's 
> occurred to me to put a bleeder valve there somewhere, but I never 
> have.
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> 
> wrote:
>  Re-routing the radiator bleed line uphill to my
> > heater core seems to be the trick (remember: I threw away the metal
> > pipe section from the radiator where it originally connected. If I'm
> > not mistaken I gave it to you...). Never realized how prone the 
> stock
> > configuration was to trap air, even with a vaunted self bleeder, 
> until
> > I helped two other owners before/after Pigeon Forge refill their
> > systems. Radiator simply would not bleed unless you cracked that 
> hose
> > -- great fun with an OEM plastic nipple.
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939




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