[DML] Re: Another hard starting case

["Dani B" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

Tune up was last done in Feburary as well as brand new battery, the
cap and rotor was replaced just the other day. Since the cap and
rotor, it starts up with a little more ease-and even performs a bit
better, but I'm still going to check out the cold start valve and the
resistor wires. Any tricks in examining the cold start valve? -Thank
you all! Dani B. #5003

> I would start out by checking the operation of the cold start valve
> system. Check if it is getting power when it is cold and the engine
is
> cranking. If it is then it could be dirty or stuck or burnt out.
> Another system is the bypass relay in the primary ignition system.
It
> is supposed to bypass part of the ballast resistor when starting
for a
> hotter spark when cranking. Check the white resistor on the firewall
> that the connections are clean and tight and the relay is also clean
> and tight and working. An old, weak battery can also be part of the
> problem along with old wires, worn spark plugs, vacuum leaks, dirty,
> old cap and rotor. In other words, maybe it's time for a tune-up?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dani B" <5n-@xxxx> wrote:
> > I slowly developed a hard starting problem. The car will start
fine if
> > I drive it, and turn it off "hot", and minutes or an hour later go
> > back
> > to start it again. The problem is when I leave it overnight, and
come
> > back to it at 5 after work-my habbit is to turn the key on and
let the
> > pump start up, then crank. It takes me a few tries where I have to
> > stop cranking after about 10 seconds, usually when I let the key
go
> > and stop cranking I will hear the engine turn over a few
cylinders and
> > cut off. Then I'll crank again and the engine will slowly turn
over
> > and run. It always starts eventually, but this is an annoying
problem
> > and seems to slowly be getting worse. Any ideas? Dani B. #5003




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