[DML] Re: Three brass screws (Please help, I broke my car)

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Refer to A:01:01 and A:01:02 These are the specs for the vacuum
advance and the mechanical advance. You really don't have to adjust
these things, you just check to make sure they are working. What I do
is set the base timing (13 degrees BTDC) at 750 RPM with the vacuum
advance disconnected. After getting the timing set I rev the motor up
and watch the timing mark, it should move some. You can actually
measure it if you want to at the various speeds. Next I reconnect the
vacuum to the vacuum advance and rev the motor up. You should see the
timing mark move a whole lot now with the mechanical AND the vacuum
advance working. Again, you can measure these things if you care to at
the various vacuum settings. Generally if they work at all they are
going to be close. You do not need a distributer tester to check these
things out. A timing light, a tachometer, and a vacuum tester are all
you need. If you get a lot of knocking (pinging) and you know the gas
you are using is good than you may want to actually measure the total
vacuum advance and the points it kicks in to see if that is the
problem. BTW testing the vacuum advance like this checks out the
ENTIRE vacuum advance system. When it is done on a tester you are only
checking the vacuum advance unit on the distributer when you could
have a problem with the vacuum solenoid, the hoses, leaks, or other
things wrong that a tester would not be able to find. For more info
refer to D:08:01 on the vacuum advance.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1@xxxx> wrote:
> David,
> 
> Thank you for the response. I have sealed the vaccumn leaks (there
> were disconnected hoses), the brass screws are all closed and the car
> is running much better now. I still would like to check the timing,





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