AW: [DML] Re: Original locking module: Really that bad?

["Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>]

David - just one last remark - there are Diodes integrated
in the module to prevent it from overvoltage induced by the coils.
If you check the schematic (I think it was drawn by Dave Swingle )
you can see D1 and D11. (Remember- when the voltae on a coil is turned off,
the current will comtinue to flow by reversing the voltage - in this moment
the diodes will be conducting...)

Therefore - no short thru the insulation.

Elvis




I agree that if you are handy there are things you can do with the
origional module. Many owners are not and the easiest thing for them
to install is the Lockzilla. I still believe it is the inductive load
that is the cause of the relay being under capacity. When the contacts
open all the power in the solenoids has nowhere to go except to arc
the contacts in the relay or stay contained within the solenoid
breaking down the insulation. Once the coil gets shorted turns now it
draws even more current when the relay contacts close. Oversizing the
relay contacts only covers the symptom, the ultimate fix is to have
circuitry that can "dump" the power in the load (coils). Lockzilla
seems to be a good fix. Anyway we both agree that the origional door
lock module is dangerous unless modified or replaced. My recomendation
to all owners is to disconnect it until you can afford to do something
with it to avoid damaging the solenoids. Once the solenoids are
damaged they must be replaced or rewound no matter what you eventually
do with the locking module. Even Lockzilla can't help you with shorted
door solenoids.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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