[DML] Re: Original locking module: Really that bad?

["Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>]

Dave, you're right, the relays are the problem of the door lock module.
But not because they are underrated but because of the relay driving
circuit.

But with the breakdown of the insulation and shorting you're wrong !
Try to understand the circuit and you'll believe me.
And if the inductivity is a problem - why not install some supression diodes
?

The module itself isn't that bad. Replace the old relays and you're
fine. (The new ones have larger contacts, too.)
I did this 2 years ago and I use my car a lot(I modified about 10 modules
so far and none had failed yet ). I have remote locks and remote door
openers installed. No problem so far. No Zilla needed.

$200 or less and you have a complete alarm system installed with
pager, power locks and door openers. No big deal at all.

Elvis & 6548


 The main problem with the origional door lock module is
the relay contacts are way to small for the current and there is no
arc suppression circuitry to disspate the inductive load when the
contacts open. This causes the load to be dissapated in the solenoids
themselves which leads to the breakdown of insulation causing the
shorting of the coils inside. The problem isn't the door solenoids, it
is the locking module.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1@xxxx> wrote:
> Everyone seems to think the original door lock module is terrible and
> will lock you in the car / destroy the solenoids / drain the battery.
> My module didn't work correctly when I bought the car, turned out the
> driver's lock solenoid was shot & shorting the entire circuit. I
> rewound the solenoids, reconnected the lock module, and it all works
> great now.
>
>




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