Re: [DML] vin scedt26t8bd001601

[Michael Paine <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Welcome to the group!!

First, get yourself a set of the 3 Delorean books - Workshop Manual, Parts
Manual, Service bulletins.

ALso the major vendors off the top of my head (forgive me if I forget you):

PJ Grady (NY) http://www.pjgrady.com/
DMCH (TX) http://www.delorean.com/
SpecialTAuto (TX) http://www.specialtauto.com/
Delorean Parts North-West(WA) http://www.delorean-parts.com/
Delorean Automotive (AZ) http://www.deloreanautomotive.com/
Delorean 1 (CA) http://www.deloreanone.com/

Also of note: 

DMC News http://www.dmcnews.com

Regarding your fuel pump: I do not know a cross refrence but any of the Delorean
vendors should have it.

Regarding your heads: The workshop manual mentions what to do about your head
torquing - here is a synopsis (by Jordan Rubin) taken from the following URL: 

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cylinderhead/headremovereplace.html

Section 7 - Re-Start and Re-tightening procedure

After ensuring that everything is re-installed and hooked up properly, fill the
engine with critical fluids (coolant, oil, fuel). I recommend having a friend
bypass the RPM relay for just a couple of seconds to prime the fuel system and
check for leaks at your fuel distributor while you watch in the engine
compartment. The bypass procedure is in the "Fuel, Emissions & Exhaust" section
of the manual. As much as you'd like to be the one to turn the key at such a
proud moment, it's best to have a friend do it while you adjust the distributor
if necessary to get the engine running. Once started, IMMEDIATELY verify oil
pressure is within normal operating range, then begin an aggressive leak check.
Run the engine for 30 minutes to heat everything up, Ensure the engine fans kick
on. Ensure engine temperature does NOT exceed 210 degrees for more than 5
minutes. If the fans don't engage, but they did work before you dismantled the
engine, then the cooling system needs to be bled. Open the bleed screw on the
thermostat cap on the waterpump. If necessary, there is also a bleed point on
the high point of the radiator on the front, passenger side. Shut down the engine.

Using a socket swivel, loosen the four intake bolts. Remove the valve covers
(including the A/C compressor and other interference) Retighten the head bolts
as called out in the manual, condensed here:

As you did when installing the heads, loosen each bolt to 15 ft/lbs, then
retorqe to 115 degrees if you have the disk, or whatever ft/lbs you decided you
could live with (65, 80, 90). Do this one at a time as recommended before, do
not loosen them all at once and then tighten them down.

The final seating of the head gaskets is important to prevent leaks. You may be
tempted to skip it to avoid tearing up the engine again. I recommend completing
the procedure to the bloody, bitter end. I'm certain there's a reason for the
retightening procedure. 

Regards,

Michael Paine
vin 6067

Quoting grooveshack26 <grooveshack@xxxxxxx>:

> hi i just purchased an 1981 DeLorean, there is no fuel pump just the 
> hole where it goes in tank and the rubber boot that holds it, is this 
> the same set up a volvo uses or is it special too this make, and 
> where is a good place too purchase these parts, also the shop that i 
> purchased this vehicle from replaced heads they had there first 
> tourque set, now when i get it running and warm up they will need too 
> have the second tourque do you know what that setting tightness 
> should be, thanks for your help . rod



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