[DML] Re: Rust question

["TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

What I am doing is replacing the front section of the frame, not just
the front extension, its a very large piece including the extension,
the shock towers, and even more. I had to cut off the old section and
weld the new section on -but obviously there will be lots of stress on
it. In order to compensate for the stress on the now weakend frame due
to it being cut, I will need to plate to provide and exceed the needed
stregnth in order for my now 2 sectioned frame not to break. I know
that usually the whole frame would be replaced, but with my skills and
experience I believe I can get away with this, and where I have the 2
secions meeting-with the required plating it will hold up just find
and last many more years to come. I have been a mechanic for too long
 and also have been doing classic car restoration for many years so
the welding is not a problem at all-I just wasn't sure about how the
inside of the plating would react to a long period of time after the
work is all finished. To tell you the truth, any work requiring steel
plating (not just frame) that I have done was vehicles for my boss
bought from auctions with all kinds of damage and after refurbishing
are sold- so I never get to see what eventually happens over time. The
DeLorean I own now will be with me until I die (unless it get crashed
god forbid), it is a car I feel that I can never sell. I just need the
frame to last a few years so I can get money together for a stainless
frame. I will soon be finished with the frame and will provide the
pitures to show you the different stages of this interesting repair.
Lastly, will coating the frame with POR-15 seal against moiture-and
how is it compared to the epoxy? I
believe I have a few cans of gray sitting on my self along with
metal-ready but I have never used it thats why I am not sure of the
results. Thanks for your past and future responses-Dan Benedek
#5003

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
wrote:
> Generally when repairing rusted sections if you are not cutting the
> entire piece out and splicing in a whole new piece the "best" most
> acceptable method is to cut out the rusted part either in a square,
> rectangular, or circular pattern, make up a piece of the same
> thickness and similar type of steel and weld it into it's place.
Grind
> the welds smooth and paint. It is more complicated than this of
course
> but that is the outline. You can use a "weld-through" type primer.
> Eastwood sells it and you can get it in any large welding supply.
> Plating patches over rusted out sections is not a good way to repair
> but I see it often because it is fast to do and takes less skill. If
> you can piece a section in properly there is no need to plate over
it.
> When you cut out the rusted piece you should clean up the "inside"
and
> seal it somehow. You can use undercoating, wax, or paint. When you
> weld your patch in it will burn the paint nearby but a weld-through
> primer will last better. Paint the inside of your patch too. The
patch
> should be about 1/8 smaller than the hole so you can get a good bead
> of weld penetrating full thickness. Practice on some scrap first to
> develop your technique and try breaking the weld in a vise to test
for
> strength. You can also cut through to see if you are welding "void
> free". Gas welding is easiest for beginners but MIG is preferred
with
> TIG being the best way to go but requires the Most skill. Keep your
> repairs small to avoid warping and distortion. Pick up some books on
> welding at a nearby welding supply house. You can also get a lot of
> books on this kind of repair at Classic Motorbooks.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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