Have you tried to activate the cold start valve during the two hour period to see if that would start the engine? That is the usual short cut to starting when the fuel accumulator is going out. Also, another way to confirm low rest pressure is to allow the fuel pump to pressurize a few times before starting by turning the key to run - listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds and stop, repeat that step a few times by turning the key off and then back to run, and then try to start the engine? If you are using the proper gauge it is valved to check the control pressure and then block it to test the primary pressure. The control pressure changes dramatically from cold to hot. Incorrect control pressure can yield all sorts of symptoms including the ones you describe. I can't tell if you have measured the fuel pressure correctly but it sounds like a bad accumulator or fuel pressure regulator. Harold McElraft - 3354 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxx> wrote: > This post is going to be long, but I figure it is the only way I'm > going to get my hot start fixed. Some of this info will be from my > earilier post, some of it will be new. > > Quick run down, new accumulator, new fuel pump, new o-rings in the > fuel distributor for the pressure regulator. After running the car > for about 30 minutes (long enough to let the fans cycle a few times > and be up to temperature). Turning the car off will result in the > inability to start. [moderator snip] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/