RE: [DML] Re: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds, trailing arm bolts, etc etc

["K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

If those are your original keys-- stop using them! Especially in the
ignition.
More than likely those keys are worn, and by using a worn key, you are
slowly forcing the little components inside the locks to wear themselves
out. Eventually, you will be able to start the car with a screwdriver.
Get copies made, but not at a hardware store. Go to a locksmith and have
some made; if he's good, he can compensate for the wear. Best, get them cut
by code.
I can do ignition keys by code-- but the problem I've found so far is that
the 2-key cars don't have the ignition code written down and I have no
cross-reference of door-key code (which is usually written down) to ignition
code. Why doesn't every 2-key car owner send me your door-key code and one
of your ignition keys? I'll see if there is a way to make a cross-reference.
:-)
James- have you guys stumbled on anything like in the factory papers?

To find your code, pull down the driver's door headliner; the ignition codes
are 7,001X through 8,999X. Door codes are WR5xxx.

-Kevin

-----Original Message-----
From: dmc001629 [mailto:dmc001629@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 10:34 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Ignition key difficulty, rusty exhaust manifolds,
trailing arm bolts, etc etc


Hey Matt:

I have car #1629, and started driving it as a daily driver in August of
2003.  Just for the record, my car came with (2) keys.  The ignition
key is a long key with a square, black plastic end.  I can use this key for








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