Typically it is not the fastener that fails, the gasket blows out. The fastener (the stud, nut and washers and tapped hole) fail when you try to remove them. In general if you use heat to prepare them for removal you can "usually" get things apart without breaking anything but on many you will rip the aluminum threads out of the head. The "best" combination I see is carbon steel studs with double (thin) brass nuts. This is pretty common in marine applications and can be disassembled easily. I use "Never-Seize" whenever I reasssemble and on the ones I have had to take apart with it things come apart easily without heat. Another neat product that racers use is a locking ring on the nut after you install. Eastwood now sells such a fastener, just not in our size. This is good because the gaskets fail eventually because from the extreme heat and the cycling the fasteners loosen over time. After that happens the clamping force is reduced so the gasket cannot handle the blow-by and fails. This lock prevents the fasteners from loosening. Another possability is to wire the nuts like on aircraft so they can't loosen but that can be hard in confined places. On many other make cars they just don't have exhaust manifold gaskets but eventually they leak too much so you have to put in aftermarket gaskets. IMHO after 20 years it is good to take things apart once in awhile. On mechanical things that are never disassembled it gets to the point that you wind up breaking all the fasteners when you eventually have to take it apart. As the fleet of Deloreans age we will see more and more of this sort of thing. Another point to make is the longer you drive with an exhaust leak the more trouble you will have with the fasteners and you may have to have the exhaust manifold "planed" or ground flat so it will make good contact with the cylinder head. I am not so sure about S/S studs. If you should ever have to drill one out it may be harder than an ordinary steel one. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "PJ Grady" <rob@xxxx> wrote: > Hi Bill, > > Not anymore! If you want a set of HARDENED STAINLESS 7MM exhaust studs I > have a box of them on my office floor awaiting further inspection. These > beauties are custom made for us and are stronger than the stock studs yet > can still be drilled out should one ever fail. Cost will be similar to OEM's > because we made a lot of them. I am now researching the best nut and washer > combination to use with them. Any comments from the "peanut gallery":). > Qualified suggestions would be most appreciated because I've received > conflicting advice over the years about stainless on stainless, brass on > stainless, steel on stainless etc. > > Robert Grady > > > -----Original Message----- > From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxx] > Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 1:06 AM > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [DML] Re: Rusty Exhaust Manifold Studs > > Stock exhaust manifold studs are M7x1 -- rather uncommon in carbon > steel, impossible to find in stainless steel. Those same holes will > tap extremely easily to 5/16x24 (24 TPI is almost identical to 1mm > pitch) -- very common in stainless. Tap will thread in as easily as a > bolt, which is useful for the studs on cylinders 1 and 4 hidden behind > the crossmember. Replacing carbon studs with stainless steel would > make future removal problem free. Don't forget the studs that hold the > manifolds to the crossover pipe (M10x1.5 -- also common in stainless). > > Bill Robertson > #5939 > > >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "D F" <funkstuf@xxxx> wrote: > > Just a note: > > One problem with these things is that the studs holding the exhaust > manifold > > are pretty small and often rust. My car was purchased and started > much like > > yours, with a roaring exhaust leak. > > Anyway, the bottom line was that I had to take my heads off to get the > > exhaust manifold studs out. This is just a suggestion. It is not a > bad > > idea to replace the old studs with larger sturdier studs. I realize > some > > people won't like that idea, but, it might make them easier to get > off next > > time. That's what I did. > > Sincereley, > > Dale Funk > > 4984 > > > > > [Moderator snip] > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderators@xxxx > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com > > To search the archives or view files, log in at > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > Yahoo! Groups Links To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/